07-15-2020 A Day at Crane Prairie Reservoir

We woke slowly after such a dark and quiet night.  There are so many different lakes in the chain of Cascade Lakes that we had to make a decision whether we wanted to explore or to stay home on our first day.  After spending yesterday driving, we decided that we would stay home and enjoy our local campground and lake for a day before attempting to explore any more of the beautiful Cascade Lakes that were scattered along the Cascade Lakes Highway.

Crane Prairie Reservoir is a large, shallow reservoir  created in 1922

Kayaking in the early part of the day always seems best.  Usually the winds aren’t strong and the sun is still not high overhead.  It can get really hot out on the water in a kayak without much protection.  We launched right after morning coffee with a plan to stay out on the water for a reasonable amount of time and then return home for a more substantial breakfast.

It was a personal test for me.  Could I still manage to get in and out of the kayak?  On the previous day, when we loaded up the boats at home, I was relieved to find out that lifting the boat and strapping it down didn’t cause me any problems.  My arms are still strong enough and my legs can still hold me up ok for that job, especially early in the morning when I am strongest.  The test yet to come was getting back out of the boat, and that thought was in the back of my mind as we slid out onto the water.  Getting into the boat wasn’t a problem at all with the shallow, sandy beach. 

Notice the underwater fire pit

South Sister on the left, Broken top in the middle, and Mt Bachelor (famous ski mountain) on the right

Before the dam was built in 1922, the area was covered by prairie and served as a habitat for cranes, which was the inspiration for the name of the lake. The construction of the original rock-filled dam flooded most of Crane Prairie and parts of the nearby forest, killing many trees. In order to recover timber, the reservoir was drained on a regular basis. Because of leakage through the original rock-filled dam, in 1940 the Bureau of Reclamation rebuilt the dam as an earthfill structure 36 feet in height and 285 feet in length. When full, the reservoir has a capacity of 55,300 acre feet.

Crane Prairie Reservoir is part of the larger Deschutes Project by the Bureau of Reclamation, which also includes Wickiup Reservoir, Haystack Reservoir, the Crooked River Pumping Plant, and North Unit Main Canal. The project was created to supply irrigation water for a total of 97,000 acres of land in the vicinity of the town of Madras which is north of Bend, Oregon.

In late summer, the reservoir is lowered as water for irrigation is withdrawn from it, leaving large areas of the lakebed exposed. We were especially lucky on this trip because our timing was just right.  The lake was very full, and yet as we drove past Wickiup on our way south, that reservoir was so low there was no water at the west end. Both lakes have moderately alkaline water with a high mineral content, slightly higher than the waters of other lakes in the region. Sometimes during the summer the water’s pH level is exceptionally high, caused by the algae that often reach bloom proportions. Much like Klamath Lake, phosphorus concentration in the lake is high and the lake will sometimes turn green as pea soup.  Our camp host told us that about two week previous to our visit the lake was completely green. One of the issues with having to make reservations to camp at any of the local campgrounds is that there is no way of knowing when you make the reservation whether the lake will be low and the water might be green. 

We discovered that Crane Prairie Reservoir is one of the most important wildlife viewing areas in central Oregon. The lake is dotted with tall stumps of the flooded trees which now provide nesting places for osprey and the reservoir is home to the largest nesting colony in the Pacific Northwest. Other species of birds include bald eagles, cormorants, blue herons, kingfishers, sandhill cranes, and Canada geese. In 1970, the Crane Prairie Osprey Management Area was established here to protect this special haven.

On our first morning kayaking the lake, we paddled south toward the outlet of the Deschutes River.  Our plan was to stay out only an hour before turning back, making sure that all my parts were working properly and that I wouldn’t get worn out so much I couldn’t get out of the boat.

It was a lovely paddle, with mostly calm winds and clear water until we approached the southern end of the lake where algae was accumulating in the water and the bugs found us.  As the sun rose higher, it was time to turn around.  We didn’t make it all the way to the river, but there is always next time.  We did see an eagle, cormorants, ospreys, and several types of ducks. 

Once we got back to our little beach, I made a small attempt to rise from my boat, and realized that my original plan for getting out of the kayak was needed.  I simply slid my legs over the side and rolled into the water on my knees.  It worked perfectly.  Looks like I will be able to continue kayaking for a bit longer without having to worry about getting in and out as long as we find nice smooth launch sites with no current to take the boat away while exiting.  I was thrilled to say the least, and all that underlying worry was gone.

We settled in after our late breakfast in our chairs, opening our awning for some nice shade and read our kindles to while away the hours until we decided it was time to do a bit of exploring in the car.  Cultus Lake wasn’t too far from where we were camped and it looked like an inviting place.  Within a few miles, we were driving up the graveled road to the resort and were shocked to find a completely different atmosphere from our laid back family campground.  Cultus Lake Resort was busy and crowded, and the beach was full of people with all sorts of water craft and kids.  It was noisy. 

The lake itself was quite lovely, deep and dark blue and I would imagine with it being a lake rather than a reservoir it might not turn green or lose water to an irrigation project.  We checked out the nearby campground, which was incredibly tight and crowded, and completely full.  I think it might be a nice place at a different time of year, but in spite of the beautiful lake, we weren’t particular entranced and made no plans to return.  Our favorite kind of kayaking includes inlets and side streams and waterways that we can explore and this pretty blue lake seemed to have every shoreline completely visible from where we stood at the parking area.

Back to camp after our foray we had another easy supper of great food brought from home.  As evening approached the afternoon winds died down a bit and we again launched at our little beach.  This time we paddled in the opposite direction, around the small peninsula at the other end of the campground toward the Crane Prairie Resort and a full hookup RV campground.  The camp looked quite extensive through the trees, and the little store was small and tidy.  We had visited the resort the previous afternoon so had no need to get out of the boats.  When we checked it out we saw that on the door was a sign saying only 4 people at a time were allowed inside and only if they were masked. 

It was a perfect sunny warm day in a quiet campground with a great view and a sweet little beach.  Perfect kayak weather, dark night skies, and a roaring campfire and roasted marshmallows to complete the evening. We needed a good night’s rest because our adventure for the next day included an early departure with plans to kayak the beautiful Elk Lake as early in the morning as we could manage.

07-14-2020 A Long Overdue Trip to the Cascade Lakes

A few years ago, when Mo’s brother Roger lived in La Pine, Oregon, we traveled to his home for a lovely reunion with extended family.  The first time was in 2004 when we still had the sailboat, and one of our favorite memories is of sailing in wild winds on Wickiup Reservoir with the brothers.  It was a wild ride, and shortly after that Mo decided to sell the sailboat since most of our Oregon mountain lakes are small and the winds mostly go in circles. 

Mo and her brother Don sailing her West Wight Potter 15 foot sailboat on Wickiup in 2004

When we went for the next reunion in 2010 we had our kayaks, and spent a lovely day going down the Deschutes River as far as the waterfall northwest of La Pine, and then spent a day kayaking the two small Twin Lakes that are adjacent to Wickiup.  Both the reservoir and Twin Lakes are located near the southern end of the of the Cascade Lakes National Scenic Byway. 

It was easy to travel to La Pine when Roger lived there, but he and his wife Nancy moved north around 2014 and we didn’t have much of a reason to get back to the area, short of driving by on our route north along Highway 97 to some distant northern destination.

Kayaking Twin Lakes in 2010 in our first kayaks

As we were traveling this past week, we both tried to remember if either of us had actually driven the entire length of the 66 mile historic road. Neither of us could remember, and sadly it was prior to blogging days.  Mo thought she may have driven it once prior to the time we met and traveled together, and I think I might have done the same when I visited Oregon in the 90’s when I still lived in Idaho and daughter Melody lived in Medford.  A good reminder of why I try to make sure I keep up with the blog! 

We talked almost every summer about how it would be a great destination for camping, with many lakes and reservoirs tempting us with gorgeous views and great kayaking, interspersed with several campgrounds, both USFS, BLM, and private resorts on some of the lakes.  Each time we would think about doing the trip, something would interfere.  Last year we were recuperating from 3 months away during the winter, and camped closer to home.  The previous year we were adjusting to our new home and decided to stay close.  In 2017 we were in the midst of building that new home and didn’t go much of anywhere, and in 2016 we traveled farther north to another family reunion in far northeastern Oregon along the Columbia River.  And on it goes, ad nauseum.  Several years prior to that, by the time we got around to thinking about heading north to the Cascade Lakes, the summer fires were spreading thick smoke all across Oregon and we had no desire to go camping anywhere. 

Finally, this year, we looked at each other a few weeks ago and said, “This might be the year for the Cascade Lakes!”  Of course this year we have Covid19, and a new policy of almost all USFS campgrounds requiring reservations.  I started searching and found that finding a spot wasn’t going to be easy.  Some of the smaller campgrounds on the more scenic natural lakes were booked solid for months.

I stayed flexible, clicking on the “next available site” several times when trying to settle on a reservation through Reserve America. We finally settled on a site that looked somewhat close to the lake (upper far left by the boat ramp) and seemed roomy enough for our 26 foot MoHo and made a reservation for 3 days.  We planned to use Crane Prairie Reservoir as a jumping off point for exploring the many beautiful lakes in the area.  Remembering the campground at Wickiup from our previous explorations, we expected the campground to be crowded and dry, and probably noisy.  With very little available, we were happy to at least find a reservation.

The weather gods have been with us this year, with a rather cool spring and so far we have clear skies and no smokes coming our way from California.  The triple digits will arrive for the first time this summer tomorrow, but a few days ago, when we got on the road for the trip to the other side of the mountain, predictions were for weather to be clear with temps in the 80’s.  Perfect!

I really love the RV TRIP WIZARD app and thanks to Erin who told me about it

Our route to the east side of the Cascades is a bit different now that we live in Grants Pass. We traveled east toward Shady Cove where my daughter Deborah lives, driving along the Rogue River toward Lost Creek Reservoir.  We have happy memories of that spot as well, camping there for our very first outing in our very first baby MoHo back in 2005.

I was just learning to knit when we camped at Lost Creek Reservoir in 2005

We haven’t returned to Lost Creek because it is a reservoir that rises and falls and by this time of year it has a very steep, very brown dirty and rocky shoreline below the waterline far above.  Not our favorite kind of lake, especially with fast boats stirring things up. Mo remembers that the boat launch ramp was steep and extremely long and not conducive to kayak launches.

Meadow view from our campsite near Diamond Lake in 2007

Our route continued north and east, beyond Diamond Lake (where we have also camped), past the north entrance to Crater Lake and down the long straight highway intercepting the familiar Highway 97 route north toward Bend.  There are several ways to access the Cascade Lakes from different directions, but we chose to follow the old route near La Pine, near brother Roger’s previous home, past Wickiup Reservoir, and on to another forest service road that was blessedly paved to our destination campground.

I love that feeling as we approach a new site in a new place.  In spite of photos and reviews and descriptions, there is no way of knowing what it will be like.  Part of the adventure, I guess.  We turned into the quite large campground and wound our way around to Site 114 in the Blue Loop and attempted to settle in.  Next door to us was a man in an older RV with a very big dog running a very noisy generator and cooking something on his outdoor stove that was just feet from our picnic table.  Our door opened right into his space. Not a particularly good omen.  Then, as we attempted to level the rig, the levelers reached their maximum extent with the bubble nowhere near the line on the level.  Hmmm.  How many blocks could be put under the rig to get it level.  I thought for a minute, and noticing all the empty sites with little reserved stickers on them, I wondered out loud if it might be possible to request a move.  My little handicap tag might be helpful in this case, maybe an ADA site was possibly open?

Leaving Mo at the site with the rig, I drove back through the winding roads to the entrance where we had seen a camp host.  Faye Winkler came right out of her rig, and was so cheery and accommodating.  She told us that most sites were reserved but she wanted to try for a site that we could occupy for our entire reservation, and within minutes she was leading me back through the campground to site 103.  We couldn’t have asked for a better site.  The beach was right across the road from us, we had only one neighbor on the door side of the rig who was facing the other direction, and no one either behind us or on the bedroom window side of the MoHo.  Perfect!  Something to mention about this campground as well is that all the roads are paved, and perfect for tooling around on bikes. The view from our site was perfect, the lake and South Sister in the distance and no rigs in front of us.

With no hookups, setting up was a snap, leveling was miniscule in the flat site, and shortly we had our chairs and small table set up on the rug in the north side shade of the rig.  We had eaten lunch on the way north, so the afternoon was wide open.  After a rest and a cool glass of wine we decided to take Mattie down to the beach.  Readers may remember that Mattie doesn’t like to swim.  She can do it, but has never tried to get in the water on her own except for that last trip to the coast when she mistakenly jumped into a river that was a bit too deep.

This time she was on leash and when Mo and I walked into the cool clean water on the nice sandy bottom she followed us right in.  What fun!  I had treats in my pocket and got her to swim to us several times.  I think she liked it because the water was quiet with no waves and not shockingly cold. 

After a little bit though, her enthusiasm waned and she decided it was time to swim back to shore.  It was fun playing with her in the water and after 5 years with this little dog, she is finally accepting that she won’t die if she goes in.  Just recently we were watching precious videos of Abby who loved the water so very much that she would start whining when we got within a mile of a beach.  Each family pet has their own personality, and while Mattie doesn’t swim like Abby did, she also doesn’t have anxiety issues like Abby did and we are blessed to be able to leave her for hours if need be in the rig with no problems. That was never an option with Abby.

As the evening settled in we unloaded the firewood we brought from home so we would be ready for our after dinner campfire.  Dinner was simple and wonderful.  I had spent most of the previous day cooking for the trip and at the time wondered if it was really worth it.  No question, it definitely was!  We had tri tip sandwiches, home baked chicken fingers, spaghetti, and yummy salads without any special effort at dinnertime.  Such a treat.

The evening fire was big and beautiful, and I enjoyed once again pulling the marshmallows out of the freezer for my personal treat.  It isn’t that they are so great, but it is so satisfying to toast one perfectly and pop it into your mouth all hot and drippy and sticky.  Silly stuff.  Funny thing, we both began to wonder who invented marshmallows and who decided that they could actually be toasted.  I had no internet at the campground in spite of the 2 bars of 4G reception on the phone.  We had to wait a few days to discover that marshmallows were around since Egyptian times made from the mallow plant, but officially invented sometime in the 1850’s using the same ingredient.  Nowadays they most often have gelatin in them, which makes toasting marshmallows a bit difficult for vegans unless they could make their own with the original ingredients.  First toasting of marshmallows for s’mores seems to be recorded in the Girl Scout Camping Cookbook from the 1920’s.  It is always funny to me the questions that come up and how strange it feels to not be able to immediately go to the internet for the answer.  We are all so very spoiled.

In spite of our fears of a noisy campground, it was actually very quiet, even with kids and campers walking about, and as the night progressed into inky darkness the stars came out one by one as we let the fire settle down.  In the middle of the night I woke up to look at the stars and was thrilled to see the Milky Way right above me and gazillions of brilliant stars lighting up the skies.  The air was cool but not cold and the night among the lodgepole pines was just about close to perfect