Day 1 at Sea – North Atlantic
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Our first sunrise on Viking Neptune
This
was our first full day at sea, and it finally felt as though the voyage had
truly begun.
We
woke to a sun just barely above the horizon and seas that seemed remarkably
gentle compared to what I had expected from the North Atlantic.
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The Eplorer Lounge at front of the ship -XL.jpg)
Lots of comfy chairs and sofas
We
wandered up to the Explorer Lounge before eight that morning. It was everything
I had hoped it would be: quietly refined, spotless, and wonderfully
comfortable. Soft shades of blue reflected the sea outside, woven pillows and
cozy throws invited you to linger, and floor-to-ceiling windows wrapped around
the bow, making it feel as though you were floating just above the Atlantic.
The Explorer Lounge quickly became one of my favorite places on the ship.
We
thought about having a light breakfast at Mamsen’s, a small café serving
pastries, sweets, and lovely Norwegian waffles with berries and cream. One look
at the lighter fare convinced us we needed something a bit more substantial, so
we headed back to the World Café at the opposite end of Deck 7. Our stateroom
was just one deck below on Deck 6, only a few steps from the elevator, making
it easy to wander wherever the mood struck us.
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First breakfast at the World Cafe
Breakfast
at the World Café was delicious. There was Mo’s favorite, sweet ripe
watermelon, cooked-to-order eggs and omelets, surprisingly good bacon for a
cruise ship, and pastries that were flaky, light, and actually full of flavor.
Before we even sat down, our water glasses were filled and coffee and juice
were offered while we took turns choosing our breakfast.
I
used my walker to make my way through the buffet line, planning to balance my
plate on the seat. On that very first morning we got our first glimpse of the
kind of impeccable yet nearly invisible service that became one of Viking’s
trademarks. The head waiter nodded almost imperceptibly to another staff
member, glanced in my direction, and within seconds someone was beside me
insisting on carrying my plate. It was the first of many such moments. Whether
in the World Café or at the Pool Grill, they always seemed to notice before I
even realized I might need help.
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Several people swam in the infinity pool at the rear of the ship but I never tried it
After
breakfast, Mo and I wandered the ship for nearly three hours without realizing
it. Every deck revealed another comfortable nook, another quiet corner, another
beautiful view of the endless ocean.
Sea
days have their own rhythm. People drift from one deck to another, settling
into favorite chairs with books or coffee before wandering off again in hopes
of spotting wildlife. By mid-afternoon, while Mo rested in our stateroom, I
claimed a comfortable sofa in the Explorer Lounge to wait for a presentation by
one of the ship’s naturalists. Soon the front windows were lined with hopeful
whale watchers. I joined them from time to time, Vox receiver clipped to my
shirt in case the naturalist announced something exciting.
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Mo and I enjoying the sunshine on this first sea day of the cruise
The
Atlantic remained unbelievably calm, just a gentle, steady roll toward the
northwest.
Sunlight
streamed through the starboard windows where I sat. Quiet conversation mingled
with soft background music while the sea slipped past under mostly clear skies
with only the faintest haze along the horizon. The ship rolled gently beneath
us, just enough to remind me we were crossing one of the great oceans of the
world.
The
wildlife presentation turned into a bit of an adventure. My hearing wasn’t
quite up to the task, and the Vox receiver stubbornly refused to cooperate.
Through the windows I could see our lecturer, a tall, slender fellow with long
white hair gathered into a Viking braid and a magnificent gray beard reaching
nearly to his chest. I caught scattered words drifting through the room:
“waters… breeding grounds… warm summer….” It was enough to remind me that
although I’d seen whales along the Pacific Coast, in Hawaii, and in Mexico,
this voyage across the North Atlantic would introduce us to an entirely
different world.
One
surprise was how much I enjoyed the gentle motion of the ship. I’ve battled
motion sickness since I was four years old, and our Hawaiian cruise years ago
nearly finished me off. This time was different. The slow, easy rocking was
almost comforting. I still carried a meclizine tablet in my pocket and had
patches waiting in the stateroom if the seas became rough, but so far they
stayed tucked away.
By
late afternoon I traded thoughts of coffee for a glass of iced tea and simply
watched the ocean slide past the windows. It struck me then that I had come to
love the feeling of a ship at sea, not enough motion to unsettle me, just enough
to know I was traveling across one of the great oceans of the world.
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The Bar adjacent to the Atrium and near the Living Room of the Neptune
We
celebrated another peaceful afternoon with a glass of wine for Mo and a Jack
for me in The Bar at the Atrium, part of what Viking calls the Living Room. It
was a quiet toast to settling into the rhythm of the voyage.
Specialty Dining at Manfredi’s
One
of the things we always look forward to on a cruise is dining in the specialty
restaurants. They usually require reservations, and on some cruise lines they
come with a hefty surcharge. On our last Oceania cruise through the British
Isles, we enjoyed four specialty dinners, all included in the fare.
Viking
also includes specialty dining, although our Deluxe Veranda stateroom allowed
just two reservations, one at each specialty restaurant: The Chef’s Table and
Manfredi’s Italian Restaurant. We were especially looking forward to Manfredi’s
after the wonderful meals we had enjoyed in Oceania’s Toscana restaurant.
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Our table for two in Manfredi's Italian restaurant
Our
reservation was one of the last of the evening, at 8:00 p.m. We arrived a few
minutes early and were seated quickly. My first impression, however, was that
the restaurant wasn’t especially attractive and didn’t feel particularly
Italian. It was fairly crowded and quite loud. Scandinavian design tends toward
muted woods, soft grays, and understated elegance. Some people love that style,
but for Mo and me it is something of an acquired taste. It didn’t have the
warm, colorful ambiance I associate with Italy. Still, after all the excellent
meals we’d already enjoyed, our expectations were high.
Our
server promptly brought a basket of wonderful Italian breads, olive oil and
vinegar, and chunks of beautifully aged Parmesan. I never caught the name of
the cheese, but it hardly mattered. It was delicious. Another waiter filled our
glasses with Chianti, though I missed which region it came from. I assumed
Tuscany. It was a pleasant beginning, even if the restaurant was too noisy to
hear much about what we were eating.
For
our antipasto we both chose the Caprese salad with sweet pearl tomatoes, fresh
mozzarella, olive oil, and basil sauce. It was good, although I couldn’t help
wishing for a few fresh basil leaves.
Mo
skipped the pasta course, but I ordered the carbonara. The pasta was thicker
than I usually make at home, though I remembered Deanna and me encountering
that same style while dining in Siena. It was certainly good, but not
exceptional. I couldn’t help remembering the carbonara I had at Toscana, which
remains one of the best things I’ve ever eaten on any cruise.
For
our main course we both chose steak rather than another pasta dish. I ordered
the bistecca, hoping for something close to the unforgettable Florentine
version we’d enjoyed in Tuscany. True bistecca is a very specific Tuscan
specialty made from particular breeds of cattle, and when it’s authentic it is
extraordinary.
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A decent steak and lovely arugula
It
probably wasn’t fair to expect that experience aboard a ship crossing the North
Atlantic. This was simply a very good steak, cooked medium rare, tender, and
flavorful, but it wasn’t the unforgettable bistecca I remembered. Mo ordered
the filet and declared that the ones I make at home are every bit as good.
My
side of braised arugula with lemon was excellent. Mo, who is much less
adventurous than I am, wasn’t nearly as enthusiastic about her soft bone marrow
served in the marrow bone. I sampled a bite. It was silky and interesting,
although I had nothing to compare it with.
Our
waiter kept our wine glasses filled and checked on us regularly, but the
service never quite reached the quietly attentive, almost invisible level we
had experienced on Oceania. Overall, the meal was a bit of a disappointment.
For
dessert we shared vanilla gelato with caramel sauce. They happily divided it
onto two plates, which was a nice touch. We skipped espresso since it was
already nearly nine o’clock and we were both ready for bed.
To
be fair, we had a cozy table for two near enough to the windows that we could
watch the ocean while we ate. After the couple seated at the window left, I
snapped a photograph. Mo asked why I was taking a picture of a plain window. I
laughed and said, “At least it’s a window.” On Oceania’s specialty Asian
restaurant we hadn’t had one at all.
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Once the couple left, we could see the ocean beautifully
Looking
at that photograph today, I realize I like it far more than I expected. It
reminds me of the feeling of sharing a good meal while watching the ocean
quietly slide past. The moving water and the gentle motion of the ship are the
best part anyway.
The
dinner itself earns only a “meh” in my memory. Looking back at the photos, I
noticed there weren’t even tablecloths, only woven placemats. It didn’t feel
especially luxurious. Perhaps my expectations were simply too high, or perhaps
Mo and I have been fortunate enough to enjoy truly exceptional meals over the
years, especially during our travels through Italy.
That
said, as I look back on the entire voyage, this dinner was the exception rather
than the rule. Throughout the cruise we were consistently impressed by the
freshness, quality, and preparation of the food aboard Viking Neptune.
One
final bit of cruise excitement: a strawberry leaked juice all over Mo’s
favorite tan jeans at breakfast. Shampoo barely touched the stain. My Optic
White toothpaste helped a little, but the real hero turned out to be denture
cleaner. The strawberry stain disappeared completely. Her jeans were soon
hanging in the shower to dry, and another small travel story had been added to
the collection.
Tomorrow
we continue toward Halifax, watching for whales and settling more deeply into
the rhythm of life at sea.
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