07-06-2026 Visiting Halifax Nova Scotia

Our first view of Halifax at 6:30 AM

We both slept well as Viking Neptune sailed toward Nova Scotia and Halifax. When we opened the curtains of our stateroom around 6:30 that morning, we were thrilled to see the ship approaching our first port of the voyage.

Fort Charlotte on Georges Island in Halifax Harbor

As Viking Neptune glided into Halifax Harbour, the first landmark to greet us was Georges Island. Beneath its peaceful green slopes lies Fort Charlotte, built by the British more than two centuries ago to defend one of the finest natural harbors in the world. It was hard to imagine cannons once pointed from those grassy hills as the morning sun reflected quietly across the water.

As a soil scientist, addicted to studying landscapes and trying to figure out their origin, I couldn't resist one more observation. The island's smooth, rounded profile almost looks natural at first glance, but much of what you're seeing is actually engineered earthworks. The thick blanket of soil and sod wasn't just for appearances; it absorbed cannon fire far better than exposed stone walls. It's one of those places where geology, engineering, and history all come together.

The lighthouse on the right captured my imagination

Then, as we rounded the island, we saw the lighthouse. Of course, I had to look up its history for myself and all the lighthouse lovers I know. Halifax merchants pushed for a light as early as 1856 after multiple ship collisions near the island in fog and darkness. Built by Thomas Halliwell on the west side of the island, it began operation on January 15, 1876, as a square wooden building standing 21 feet high with an attached keeper's dwelling. It served for forty years until a devastating fire destroyed the wooden structure in 1916.

It was replaced around 1919 by the sturdy octagonal concrete lighthouse that still stands today. A separate keeper's house was built nearby. The station remained staffed until David Barkhouse, the final keeper, left in 1972 when the light was automated. Today, the Canadian Coast Guard maintains the light, while the island and Fort Charlotte are preserved as part of Georges Island National Historic Site.

I am feeling happy and energetic this morning.  Sunshine does that for me.

The weather was perfect, with brilliant blue skies, a light breeze, and temperatures in the mid-60s. Mo had visited Halifax many years ago on a Maritime Provinces land tour, but I had never been there. We came close in 2015 during a Princess cruise to New England, but rough weather kept us from docking. I was looking forward to finally seeing the city.

Mo is happy too as we enjoy a great breakfast

We had plenty of time for breakfast in the World Café before our 10:30 disembarkation. Afterwards we explored parts of the ship we hadn't yet visited and discovered several lovely places that would call us back again and again throughout the cruise.

The pool deck with the roof open to the beautiful sunny morning

The lovely Aquavit Terrace for al fresco dining in good weather

A lovely room for quiet relaxation on the way to the Pool Deck

The pink hop-on, hop-off bus tour turned out to be the perfect excursion. There wasn't much hopping involved, which suited me just fine. Halifax basked in warm sunshine while my carefully packed cold-weather clothes continued to languish in the closet. Our bus wasn't actually pink, but it was delightfully old and rickety. A double-decker bus with surprisingly comfortable bench seats, it had plenty of character. 

Our converted double decker pink school bus was white

I turned on my talk-to-text microphone and managed to "mostly" capture the guide's narration. Fortunately, he had the perfect voice for the job.The tour lasted about an hour and a half. As expected, there wasn't going to be any hopping off for me. 

Trying to see through the bus windows was sometimes challenging

We crawled through traffic while the diesel engine idled, giving us extra time to hear the stories. Halifax was founded in 1749 as a British military garrison, and even today the military remains one of the city's largest employers, with a strong Navy, Army, and Air Force presence.One of Halifax's defining moments came on December 6, 1917, when two ships collided in the Narrows. One was carrying explosives, and the resulting Halifax Explosion devastated much of the city. The people of Boston immediately sent doctors, nurses, and supplies to help, a kindness Halifax still remembers every year by sending Boston a magnificent Christmas tree from Nova Scotia.

A view of the Fairview Lawn Cemetery but no chance to walk to the graves of Titanic victims

The guide pointed out Fairview Lawn Cemetery, where more than one hundred victims of the Titanic are buried. Among them is the famous grave marked "J. Dawson." Despite what many people believe, it does not belong to Leonardo DiCaprio's Jack Dawson, but to Joseph Dawson, a member of Titanic's crew whose grave became famous after the movie was released.

Just for fun, here is the actual camera shot, had to pretend the fence wasn't there with editing

Lots of brick and Scottish stone reminded us of Edinburgh

The city is built of handsome Victorian brick and Scottish stone, with colorful cottages, English-style perennial gardens, and, of course, plenty of Tim Hortons coffee shops. We passed the large Canadian Coast Guard base, responsible for the safety of ships throughout Canadian waters, and nearby the Irving Shipyard, one of Canada's largest shipbuilders. Its location beside the naval base makes it ideal for constructing and servicing naval vessels.From a distance we could see the Angus L. Macdonald Bridge spanning the harbor. Opened in 1955, it has its own colorful legend. Our guide told us that two earlier bridges supposedly collapsed because of a jealous husband who cursed the crossing after discovering his wife meeting a British soldier. Fortunately, the present bridge has survived just fine.

We passed several lovely parks and gardens with folks enjoying the gorgeous day outdoors

Much of the road construction we saw is part of the Cogswell District redevelopment project, replacing an aging maze of overpasses with streets, parks, and roundabouts that reconnect Halifax's north end with downtown.Returning toward downtown, we passed one of Halifax's busiest transit hubs, surrounded by office towers, shops, and restaurants. A clock on one building remains permanently stopped at 9:04 a.m., the exact moment of the Halifax Explosion, serving as a quiet memorial to that tragic day.

Looking back down toward the harbor as we approach Citidel Hill

The guide pointed out the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, home to the restored house of folk artist Maud Lewis. Confined to her tiny home for much of her life, she filled both the house and her paintings with cheerful colors. After her death, the entire house was carefully preserved inside the museum. Nearby stands a statue of Joseph Howe, journalist, politician, and champion of Nova Scotia during the years leading up to Canadian Confederation in 1867.

Province House with sentries on duty

We also passed Province House, where the Nova Scotia Legislature still meets, and Government House, the official residence of the Lieutenant Governor. Our guide made sure we knew the Lieutenant Governor was home because sentries were posted at the entrance.

Near the waterfront sits Halifax's historic VIA Rail station, where travelers can still board a train for the long journey across Canada. The guide joked that it takes about a week to reach Vancouver, but the scenery through the Rocky Mountains makes the trip worthwhile.I wasn't particularly interested in the Halifax stop before we arrived, but after the tour I came away with a genuine appreciation for both the city and its remarkable history.

The driver took us to the 

Our final stop was Citadel Hill, the great fortress overlooking the city. 

We were not able to hike to the top of Citadel Hill since I wasn't in the mood to Hop Off

Sailing out of Halifax Harbor by 4 PM

The ship set sail earlier than we expected beneath clear blue skies, bright sunshine, and a lovely breeze. That evening we enjoyed Canada Night in the World Café, and our meal was memorable, easily ten times better than the specialty restaurant the previous evening.

We began with perfectly fried goat cheese drizzled with silky dill sauce, 

followed by succulent shrimp and crab, fresh greens with balsamic dressing, 

and a poke salad almost as good as the one Deb and I enjoyed during our Viking Rhine River cruise. 

Then came the star of the evening: perfectly cooked maple-glazed salmon, green beans that tasted as though they'd just come from someone's garden, roast duck with duck sauce, and roasted walnut butternut squash. Every bite was wonderful.

Then something Mo and I usually dread turned out to be one of the highlights of the evening.A couple asked if they could share our table.Of course. Lucille and Bob from Connecticut turned out to be delightful companions. They were charming, easy to talk with, genuinely interested in other people, and just as willing to listen as to tell their own stories. We laughed together throughout dinner, and by the end of the evening we had exchanged phone numbers. Perhaps one of those rare travel friendships will continue long after the voyage has ended.

No photo of our friends but this shows how lovely and uncrowded the World Cafe is at dinner

We finished dinner with wine and our complimentary Crown Royal whiskey sours before wandering down to the Star Theater on Deck 2. There we enjoyed the Viking Band and vocalists in the first of several outstanding performances we would see during the cruise. 

The Star Theater was full every night for great entertainmaent

The evening featured Southern rock but wandered happily through older country favorites as well, from Patsy Cline to Johnny Cash. We were both amazed by the quality of the entertainment throughout the ship.

smoke from the fires in Canada was visible into much of the North Atlantic

We ended our first full port day standing on our veranda, watching the sun slowly sink toward the horizon shortly after 9:30 that evening. Halifax had been far more interesting than I ever expected, and as Viking Neptune slipped quietly back out to sea, I found myself looking forward to whatever tomorrow might bring.