07-06-2026 Visiting Halifax Nova Scotia

Our first view of Halifax at 6:30 AM

We both slept well as Viking Neptune sailed toward Nova Scotia and Halifax. When we opened the curtains of our stateroom around 6:30 that morning, we were thrilled to see the ship approaching our first port of the voyage.

Fort Charlotte on Georges Island in Halifax Harbor

As Viking Neptune glided into Halifax Harbour, the first landmark to greet us was Georges Island. Beneath its peaceful green slopes lies Fort Charlotte, built by the British more than two centuries ago to defend one of the finest natural harbors in the world. It was hard to imagine cannons once pointed from those grassy hills as the morning sun reflected quietly across the water.

As a soil scientist, addicted to studying landscapes and trying to figure out their origin, I couldn't resist one more observation. The island's smooth, rounded profile almost looks natural at first glance, but much of what you're seeing is actually engineered earthworks. The thick blanket of soil and sod wasn't just for appearances; it absorbed cannon fire far better than exposed stone walls. It's one of those places where geology, engineering, and history all come together.

The lighthouse on the right captured my imagination

Then, as we rounded the island, we saw the lighthouse. Of course, I had to look up its history for myself and all the lighthouse lovers I know. Halifax merchants pushed for a light as early as 1856 after multiple ship collisions near the island in fog and darkness. Built by Thomas Halliwell on the west side of the island, it began operation on January 15, 1876, as a square wooden building standing 21 feet high with an attached keeper's dwelling. It served for forty years until a devastating fire destroyed the wooden structure in 1916.

It was replaced around 1919 by the sturdy octagonal concrete lighthouse that still stands today. A separate keeper's house was built nearby. The station remained staffed until David Barkhouse, the final keeper, left in 1972 when the light was automated. Today, the Canadian Coast Guard maintains the light, while the island and Fort Charlotte are preserved as part of Georges Island National Historic Site.

I am feeling happy and energetic this morning.  Sunshine does that for me.

The weather was perfect, with brilliant blue skies, a light breeze, and temperatures in the mid-60s. Mo had visited Halifax many years ago on a Maritime Provinces land tour, but I had never been there. We came close in 2015 during a Princess cruise to New England, but rough weather kept us from docking. I was looking forward to finally seeing the city.

Mo is happy too as we enjoy a great breakfast

We had plenty of time for breakfast in the World Café before our 10:30 disembarkation. Afterwards we explored parts of the ship we hadn't yet visited and discovered several lovely places that would call us back again and again throughout the cruise.

The pool deck with the roof open to the beautiful sunny morning

The lovely Aquavit Terrace for al fresco dining in good weather

A lovely room for quiet relaxation on the way to the Pool Deck

The pink hop-on, hop-off bus tour turned out to be the perfect excursion. There wasn't much hopping involved, which suited me just fine. Halifax basked in warm sunshine while my carefully packed cold-weather clothes continued to languish in the closet. Our bus wasn't actually pink, but it was delightfully old and rickety. A double-decker bus with surprisingly comfortable bench seats, it had plenty of character. 

Our converted double decker pink school bus was white

I turned on my talk-to-text microphone and managed to "mostly" capture the guide's narration. Fortunately, he had the perfect voice for the job.The tour lasted about an hour and a half. As expected, there wasn't going to be any hopping off for me. 

Trying to see through the bus windows was sometimes challenging

We crawled through traffic while the diesel engine idled, giving us extra time to hear the stories. Halifax was founded in 1749 as a British military garrison, and even today the military remains one of the city's largest employers, with a strong Navy, Army, and Air Force presence.One of Halifax's defining moments came on December 6, 1917, when two ships collided in the Narrows. One was carrying explosives, and the resulting Halifax Explosion devastated much of the city. The people of Boston immediately sent doctors, nurses, and supplies to help, a kindness Halifax still remembers every year by sending Boston a magnificent Christmas tree from Nova Scotia.

A view of the Fairview Lawn Cemetery but no chance to walk to the graves of Titanic victims

The guide pointed out Fairview Lawn Cemetery, where more than one hundred victims of the Titanic are buried. Among them is the famous grave marked "J. Dawson." Despite what many people believe, it does not belong to Leonardo DiCaprio's Jack Dawson, but to Joseph Dawson, a member of Titanic's crew whose grave became famous after the movie was released.

Just for fun, here is the actual camera shot, had to pretend the fence wasn't there with editing

Lots of brick and Scottish stone reminded us of Edinburgh

The city is built of handsome Victorian brick and Scottish stone, with colorful cottages, English-style perennial gardens, and, of course, plenty of Tim Hortons coffee shops. We passed the large Canadian Coast Guard base, responsible for the safety of ships throughout Canadian waters, and nearby the Irving Shipyard, one of Canada's largest shipbuilders. Its location beside the naval base makes it ideal for constructing and servicing naval vessels.From a distance we could see the Angus L. Macdonald Bridge spanning the harbor. Opened in 1955, it has its own colorful legend. Our guide told us that two earlier bridges supposedly collapsed because of a jealous husband who cursed the crossing after discovering his wife meeting a British soldier. Fortunately, the present bridge has survived just fine.

We passed several lovely parks and gardens with folks enjoying the gorgeous day outdoors

Much of the road construction we saw is part of the Cogswell District redevelopment project, replacing an aging maze of overpasses with streets, parks, and roundabouts that reconnect Halifax's north end with downtown.Returning toward downtown, we passed one of Halifax's busiest transit hubs, surrounded by office towers, shops, and restaurants. A clock on one building remains permanently stopped at 9:04 a.m., the exact moment of the Halifax Explosion, serving as a quiet memorial to that tragic day.

Looking back down toward the harbor as we approach Citidel Hill

The guide pointed out the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, home to the restored house of folk artist Maud Lewis. Confined to her tiny home for much of her life, she filled both the house and her paintings with cheerful colors. After her death, the entire house was carefully preserved inside the museum. Nearby stands a statue of Joseph Howe, journalist, politician, and champion of Nova Scotia during the years leading up to Canadian Confederation in 1867.

Province House with sentries on duty

We also passed Province House, where the Nova Scotia Legislature still meets, and Government House, the official residence of the Lieutenant Governor. Our guide made sure we knew the Lieutenant Governor was home because sentries were posted at the entrance.

Near the waterfront sits Halifax's historic VIA Rail station, where travelers can still board a train for the long journey across Canada. The guide joked that it takes about a week to reach Vancouver, but the scenery through the Rocky Mountains makes the trip worthwhile.I wasn't particularly interested in the Halifax stop before we arrived, but after the tour I came away with a genuine appreciation for both the city and its remarkable history.

The driver took us to the 

Our final stop was Citadel Hill, the great fortress overlooking the city. 

We were not able to hike to the top of Citadel Hill since I wasn't in the mood to Hop Off

Sailing out of Halifax Harbor by 4 PM

The ship set sail earlier than we expected beneath clear blue skies, bright sunshine, and a lovely breeze. That evening we enjoyed Canada Night in the World Café, and our meal was memorable, easily ten times better than the specialty restaurant the previous evening.

We began with perfectly fried goat cheese drizzled with silky dill sauce, 

followed by succulent shrimp and crab, fresh greens with balsamic dressing, 

and a poke salad almost as good as the one Deb and I enjoyed during our Viking Rhine River cruise. 

Then came the star of the evening: perfectly cooked maple-glazed salmon, green beans that tasted as though they'd just come from someone's garden, roast duck with duck sauce, and roasted walnut butternut squash. Every bite was wonderful.

Then something Mo and I usually dread turned out to be one of the highlights of the evening.A couple asked if they could share our table.Of course. Lucille and Bob from Connecticut turned out to be delightful companions. They were charming, easy to talk with, genuinely interested in other people, and just as willing to listen as to tell their own stories. We laughed together throughout dinner, and by the end of the evening we had exchanged phone numbers. Perhaps one of those rare travel friendships will continue long after the voyage has ended.

No photo of our friends but this shows how lovely and uncrowded the World Cafe is at dinner

We finished dinner with wine and our complimentary Crown Royal whiskey sours before wandering down to the Star Theater on Deck 2. There we enjoyed the Viking Band and vocalists in the first of several outstanding performances we would see during the cruise. 

The Star Theater was full every night for great entertainmaent

The evening featured Southern rock but wandered happily through older country favorites as well, from Patsy Cline to Johnny Cash. We were both amazed by the quality of the entertainment throughout the ship.

smoke from the fires in Canada was visible into much of the North Atlantic

We ended our first full port day standing on our veranda, watching the sun slowly sink toward the horizon shortly after 9:30 that evening. Halifax had been far more interesting than I ever expected, and as Viking Neptune slipped quietly back out to sea, I found myself looking forward to whatever tomorrow might bring.

07-05-2026 First Day at Sea and Dinner at Manfredi's

Day 1 at Sea – North Atlantic

Our first sunrise on Viking Neptune

This was our first full day at sea, and it finally felt as though the voyage had truly begun.

We woke to a sun just barely above the horizon and seas that seemed remarkably gentle compared to what I had expected from the North Atlantic.

The Eplorer Lounge at front of the ship

Lots of comfy chairs and sofas

We wandered up to the Explorer Lounge before eight that morning. It was everything I had hoped it would be: quietly refined, spotless, and wonderfully comfortable. Soft shades of blue reflected the sea outside, woven pillows and cozy throws invited you to linger, and floor-to-ceiling windows wrapped around the bow, making it feel as though you were floating just above the Atlantic. The Explorer Lounge quickly became one of my favorite places on the ship.

We thought about having a light breakfast at Mamsen’s, a small café serving pastries, sweets, and lovely Norwegian waffles with berries and cream. One look at the lighter fare convinced us we needed something a bit more substantial, so we headed back to the World Café at the opposite end of Deck 7. Our stateroom was just one deck below on Deck 6, only a few steps from the elevator, making it easy to wander wherever the mood struck us.

First breakfast at the World Cafe

Breakfast at the World Café was delicious. There was Mo’s favorite, sweet ripe watermelon, cooked-to-order eggs and omelets, surprisingly good bacon for a cruise ship, and pastries that were flaky, light, and actually full of flavor. Before we even sat down, our water glasses were filled and coffee and juice were offered while we took turns choosing our breakfast.

I used my walker to make my way through the buffet line, planning to balance my plate on the seat. On that very first morning we got our first glimpse of the kind of impeccable yet nearly invisible service that became one of Viking’s trademarks. The head waiter nodded almost imperceptibly to another staff member, glanced in my direction, and within seconds someone was beside me insisting on carrying my plate. It was the first of many such moments. Whether in the World Café or at the Pool Grill, they always seemed to notice before I even realized I might need help.

Several people swam in the infinity pool at the rear of the ship but I never tried it

After breakfast, Mo and I wandered the ship for nearly three hours without realizing it. Every deck revealed another comfortable nook, another quiet corner, another beautiful view of the endless ocean.

Sea days have their own rhythm. People drift from one deck to another, settling into favorite chairs with books or coffee before wandering off again in hopes of spotting wildlife. By mid-afternoon, while Mo rested in our stateroom, I claimed a comfortable sofa in the Explorer Lounge to wait for a presentation by one of the ship’s naturalists. Soon the front windows were lined with hopeful whale watchers. I joined them from time to time, Vox receiver clipped to my shirt in case the naturalist announced something exciting.

Mo and I enjoying the sunshine on this first sea day of the cruise

The Atlantic remained unbelievably calm, just a gentle, steady roll toward the northwest.

Sunlight streamed through the starboard windows where I sat. Quiet conversation mingled with soft background music while the sea slipped past under mostly clear skies with only the faintest haze along the horizon. The ship rolled gently beneath us, just enough to remind me we were crossing one of the great oceans of the world.

The wildlife presentation turned into a bit of an adventure. My hearing wasn’t quite up to the task, and the Vox receiver stubbornly refused to cooperate. Through the windows I could see our lecturer, a tall, slender fellow with long white hair gathered into a Viking braid and a magnificent gray beard reaching nearly to his chest. I caught scattered words drifting through the room: “waters… breeding grounds… warm summer….” It was enough to remind me that although I’d seen whales along the Pacific Coast, in Hawaii, and in Mexico, this voyage across the North Atlantic would introduce us to an entirely different world.

One surprise was how much I enjoyed the gentle motion of the ship. I’ve battled motion sickness since I was four years old, and our Hawaiian cruise years ago nearly finished me off. This time was different. The slow, easy rocking was almost comforting. I still carried a meclizine tablet in my pocket and had patches waiting in the stateroom if the seas became rough, but so far they stayed tucked away.

By late afternoon I traded thoughts of coffee for a glass of iced tea and simply watched the ocean slide past the windows. It struck me then that I had come to love the feeling of a ship at sea, not enough motion to unsettle me, just enough to know I was traveling across one of the great oceans of the world.

The Bar adjacent to the Atrium and near the Living Room of the Neptune

We celebrated another peaceful afternoon with a glass of wine for Mo and a Jack for me in The Bar at the Atrium, part of what Viking calls the Living Room. It was a quiet toast to settling into the rhythm of the voyage.

Specialty Dining at Manfredi’s

One of the things we always look forward to on a cruise is dining in the specialty restaurants. They usually require reservations, and on some cruise lines they come with a hefty surcharge. On our last Oceania cruise through the British Isles, we enjoyed four specialty dinners, all included in the fare.

Viking also includes specialty dining, although our Deluxe Veranda stateroom allowed just two reservations, one at each specialty restaurant: The Chef’s Table and Manfredi’s Italian Restaurant. We were especially looking forward to Manfredi’s after the wonderful meals we had enjoyed in Oceania’s Toscana restaurant.

Our table for two in Manfredi's Italian restaurant

Our reservation was one of the last of the evening, at 8:00 p.m. We arrived a few minutes early and were seated quickly. My first impression, however, was that the restaurant wasn’t especially attractive and didn’t feel particularly Italian. It was fairly crowded and quite loud. Scandinavian design tends toward muted woods, soft grays, and understated elegance. Some people love that style, but for Mo and me it is something of an acquired taste. It didn’t have the warm, colorful ambiance I associate with Italy. Still, after all the excellent meals we’d already enjoyed, our expectations were high.

Our server promptly brought a basket of wonderful Italian breads, olive oil and vinegar, and chunks of beautifully aged Parmesan. I never caught the name of the cheese, but it hardly mattered. It was delicious. Another waiter filled our glasses with Chianti, though I missed which region it came from. I assumed Tuscany. It was a pleasant beginning, even if the restaurant was too noisy to hear much about what we were eating.

For our antipasto we both chose the Caprese salad with sweet pearl tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, olive oil, and basil sauce. It was good, although I couldn’t help wishing for a few fresh basil leaves.

Mo skipped the pasta course, but I ordered the carbonara. The pasta was thicker than I usually make at home, though I remembered Deanna and me encountering that same style while dining in Siena. It was certainly good, but not exceptional. I couldn’t help remembering the carbonara I had at Toscana, which remains one of the best things I’ve ever eaten on any cruise.

For our main course we both chose steak rather than another pasta dish. I ordered the bistecca, hoping for something close to the unforgettable Florentine version we’d enjoyed in Tuscany. True bistecca is a very specific Tuscan specialty made from particular breeds of cattle, and when it’s authentic it is extraordinary.

A decent steak and lovely arugula

It probably wasn’t fair to expect that experience aboard a ship crossing the North Atlantic. This was simply a very good steak, cooked medium rare, tender, and flavorful, but it wasn’t the unforgettable bistecca I remembered. Mo ordered the filet and declared that the ones I make at home are every bit as good.

My side of braised arugula with lemon was excellent. Mo, who is much less adventurous than I am, wasn’t nearly as enthusiastic about her soft bone marrow served in the marrow bone. I sampled a bite. It was silky and interesting, although I had nothing to compare it with.

Our waiter kept our wine glasses filled and checked on us regularly, but the service never quite reached the quietly attentive, almost invisible level we had experienced on Oceania. Overall, the meal was a bit of a disappointment.

For dessert we shared vanilla gelato with caramel sauce. They happily divided it onto two plates, which was a nice touch. We skipped espresso since it was already nearly nine o’clock and we were both ready for bed.

To be fair, we had a cozy table for two near enough to the windows that we could watch the ocean while we ate. After the couple seated at the window left, I snapped a photograph. Mo asked why I was taking a picture of a plain window. I laughed and said, “At least it’s a window.” On Oceania’s specialty Asian restaurant we hadn’t had one at all.

Once the couple left, we could see the ocean beautifully

Looking at that photograph today, I realize I like it far more than I expected. It reminds me of the feeling of sharing a good meal while watching the ocean quietly slide past. The moving water and the gentle motion of the ship are the best part anyway.

The dinner itself earns only a “meh” in my memory. Looking back at the photos, I noticed there weren’t even tablecloths, only woven placemats. It didn’t feel especially luxurious. Perhaps my expectations were simply too high, or perhaps Mo and I have been fortunate enough to enjoy truly exceptional meals over the years, especially during our travels through Italy.

That said, as I look back on the entire voyage, this dinner was the exception rather than the rule. Throughout the cruise we were consistently impressed by the freshness, quality, and preparation of the food aboard Viking Neptune.

One final bit of cruise excitement: a strawberry leaked juice all over Mo’s favorite tan jeans at breakfast. Shampoo barely touched the stain. My Optic White toothpaste helped a little, but the real hero turned out to be denture cleaner. The strawberry stain disappeared completely. Her jeans were soon hanging in the shower to dry, and another small travel story had been added to the collection.

Tomorrow we continue toward Halifax, watching for whales and settling more deeply into the rhythm of life at sea.

07-04-2026 Departing Boston on the Fourth of July

Escaping from the hotel lobby into the heat of Boston

After an all-day drive to Portland and our red-eye flight to Boston, I found myself in a nightmare of unending exhaustion.

Viking representatives appeared almost immediately at the baggage carousel and whisked away every piece of our luggage. A very nice gentleman in a bright red suit and Viking hat walked us to a large black SUV, and within minutes we arrived at at the InterContinental Boston, a beautiful waterfront hotel overlooking Boston Harbor.

A lovely hotel,  but no breakfast photos, I was too tired

We were escorted to a beautiful restaurant serving an extensive breakfast buffet in cool air-conditioned comfort, with anything you could possibly want to eat. I was so tired I could barely decide what I wanted for breakfast.

After we ate, we were told to settle into the sofas and chairs in the large lobby and wait for Group 3 to be called for the bus to the ship. The problem was that we had arrived in Boston at 7:00 a.m., and Viking Neptune would not be ready for boarding for at least another four hours.

Three hours in a hotel lobby, with muzak droning softly in the background and exhaustion so deep that every minute felt impossible to remain upright, seemed like an eternity. Once we got on the ship, I didn't care what else happened. I was going to put on my nightgown and crawl into bed.

Boston was hot. Eighty-five degrees felt much warmer than we were used to because of the East Coast humidity. Inside the hotel it was freezing, so we wandered outdoors for a short walk. There wasn't a speck of shade anywhere, and yes, it really was that humid.

Back inside we put our jackets on and resumed waiting. People were mingling, chatting, and introducing themselves. Mo and I could barely carry on a conversation with each other, much less socialize with the seemingly energetic strangers around us.

Too tired to take a decent photo and the video didn't even record!

Then, suddenly, an incredible banging and ringing echoed through the lobby as a wildly colorful group of Indian wedding guests marched past with drums and bells. It turned out they were arriving for a wedding reception. The brilliant saris floated through the lobby like a flock of butterflies in a fairy tale garden. Family members gathered for endless combinations of photographs with the bride and groom, laughter filling the room.

The entire experience was absolutely delightful and a wonderful respite from our exhaustion. I looked at Mo and laughed. "I guess we aren't in small-town Grants Pass anymore." Soon the colorful procession disappeared into the banquet room, the joyous music faded away, and once again the hotel muzak reclaimed the lobby.

At last, sometime around eleven o'clock, our group was called. We boarded the bus for the short ride to the cruise terminal. Neptune isn't a huge ship, but seeing her for the first time from the dock, she seemed impossibly tall, and so very, very white. She was spotless and absolutely beautiful.

Embarkation was simple and efficient. We passed through document checks, were directed to another waiting area, and then, one group at a time, stepped aboard.

We were finally on the ship! Well... almost.

Being on the ship didn't mean we could actually go to our stateroom yet. With our stateroom category, we were allowed access at 2:00 p.m., not the first guests aboard, but certainly not the last.

When we booked, we had discovered what felt like the sweet spot. I could see almost no difference between the Veranda Stateroom and the Deluxe Veranda Stateroom except for a handful of worthwhile perks: entering our room an hour earlier, earlier access to excursion reservations, and earlier specialty restaurant bookings. For roughly two hundred dollars more, it was money well spent.

The bed was exceptionally comfortable, especially after I requested an extra foam pad

At two o'clock we finally reached our stateroom. It wasn't particularly spacious, but it immediately felt welcoming. Perhaps it only seemed small because we were so completely exhausted.

Two surprisingly comfy chairs for sitting and a nook for the walker on the left

My suitcase had already arrived, but Mo's was nowhere to be found. That was a little unsettling. Then someone delivered a suitcase that wasn't even hers, which didn't exactly inspire confidence. We knew her luggage had made it onto the Viking bus, so we kept telling ourselves it would eventually appear. It was still a bit stressful.

I didn't realize that we had begun sailing when I took this photo

After settling in, we headed up to the pool deck for sailaway. Boston Harbor was beautiful. Huge clouds hung over the city while cool breezes drifted through the partially opened glass roof above the pool deck.

The Pool Grill became a fav spot for lunches

Then came our first of many unforgettable meals. The Fourth of July buffet was everything you could imagine for an American barbecue, barbecued ribs and chicken, enormous lobsters, crab legs, every kind of salad imaginable, and of course potato salad. 

I messaged the girls in our family WhatsApp chat to reassure them that I was, in fact, eating potato salad on the Fourth of July.

The Viking musicians were performing as well, and every one of them was remarkably talented. The singer effortlessly worked through classic rock favorites, including Bruce Springsteen songs that sounded uncannily like The Boss himself. We were equally impressed by the pianist and guitarist.

As we slowly sailed away from Boston, the clouds grew darker and more ominous. Suddenly the enormous glass roof overhead, riding on massive tracks, began to slide shut. Its timing was perfect. 

Within minutes the storm engulfed the ship. Rain pounded against the glass roof overhead, bouncing and cascading across it while we remained warm and dry beneath. I couldn't imagine how they had known exactly when to close it.

And then there was this!

When we finally returned to our room, we were relieved to find Mo's missing suitcase waiting patiently outside our door. It didn't take long to unpack. Before long we slipped into bed, almost too exhausted to sleep.

Outside our open balcony door, the storm continued to rage. Boston slowly disappeared behind us, and the gentle swells of the Atlantic carried us quietly toward whatever adventures lay ahead.

Finally. We were here. We were on our way.

07-03-2026 On Our Way

The day we had been anticipating for months had finally arrived.

With all of Mattie's things packed into the car, we headed first to Home Away From Home, her boarding kennel. She has stayed there before, so we felt completely comfortable leaving her in their care. They promised email updates and those adorable little report cards, along with three trips outside each day and playtime every other day with dogs her own size. Mattie has always charmed the staff and loves making new canine friends, so we knew she would be fine. Maybe a little sad and missing us, but fine.

We have never made it Portland in 4 hours!

After dropping her off, we merged onto Interstate 5 and pointed the car north toward Portland and PDX. It's about a six-hour drive from home if traffic cooperates, and that was the big unknown. It was Friday, and Portland's huge Waterfront Blues Festival was in full swing along the river.

I had attended the festival once years ago when Deborah was treasurer of the Cascade Blues Society and had a booth there. It was great fun spending two days surrounded by wonderful music, especially since I had free admission and a quiet place to escape the crowds whenever I needed to retreat to Deb's booth. The fireworks over the river that year were spectacular...and so long, loud, and overwhelming that I was secretly relieved when they finally ended!

Deb in her booth at the 2006 Waterfont Blues Festival in Portland

No fireworks for us this year, although I wasn't surprised to notice a number of distinctly bluesy-looking people checking into our hotel.

Considering it was one of the busiest travel weekends of the summer, traffic was amazingly light. We even had time to stop at a surprisingly good Applebee's for lunch. The portions were so generous that we had plenty left over for an early supper back in our room before heading to the airport.

Lots of leftovers from our delicious Applebee's lunch

Traffic remained easy until the final three miles before our exit, where everything suddenly ground to a halt. It took about twenty minutes to crawl those last few miles, but because we had allowed plenty of extra time, neither of us felt stressed. By the time we reached the hotel, however, I was suddenly exhausted and more than ready for a nap. Go figure.

Perfectly comfortable room with a decent bed and linens

We settled into the La Quinta Inn & Suites near Portland Airport. It isn't fancy, but it's clean, comfortable, and serves exactly the purpose we needed: a place to rest before catching the 7:00 p.m. shuttle to the airport for our 10:00 p.m. red-eye flight to Boston. It also lets us leave the car for the duration of our trip, which is far easier than parking at the airport. The shuttle drops us right at the entrance, and any help with our luggage is appreciated. Although both suitcases were under the 50-pound limit, they were about as heavy as we could comfortably manage.The desk clerk had to search around to find someone to help us with our luggage, but once she did he was cheerful and very helpful. No waiting bellhops here like the fancier hotels.

look closely and you can see the little Lexus in the shade in front of that white shuttle van

When I asked about the safest place to leave the car for seventeen days, she pointed to a parking spot directly in front of the lobby. Perfect. Before we headed inside, Mo disconnected the battery ground cable to make sure the car would start when we returned.

Our Alaska flight was scheduled to depart at 10:00 p.m., so we caught the 7:00 shuttle to the airport. The timing worked out just about perfectly, although we still had to wrestle our luggage ourselves since there were no porters available at that hour. We checked our bags, discovering that Alaska now charges an additional $35 per checked bag, made our way through security, and soon arrived at our gate with plenty of time to spare.

For what was supposed to be one of the busiest travel days of the year, we were amazed at how empty the airport felt. Someone told us the previous day had been absolute chaos, with many travelers choosing to leave early to avoid the holiday rush.

The new waiting area before we went through security at PDX

PDX has recently completed an extensive remodel. It looked beautiful, although I realized I could hardly remember what it had looked like before. Security was quick and painless, and before long we were comfortably settled at the gate waiting for an on-time departure.

Our Alaska flight had the standard three-and-three seating. Since it was only about a five-hour flight, I had decided not to pay extra for Economy Plus. Then, just before departure, Viking sent me an offer to upgrade our seats, and I quickly accepted. It wasn't expensive, and the little bit of extra legroom was well worth it.

Mo had the middle seat, I had the aisle, and our window-seat companion was a large young man who immediately put in his earbuds, closed the window shade, and settled in for the flight.

view of the off limits facilities at the front of our plane

The only downside was that our seats were a very long way from the bathrooms we were actually allowed to use. The first-class restroom was only a few rows away, but, alas, those of us in steerage had to make the long trek to the back of the plane. Thankfully I didn't have to make too many trips.

wildfire smoke above the cloud layer over the midwest

As we climbed away from Portland, our seatmate lifted the shade just enough for us to look out. The western sky was hazy with wildfire smoke, a reminder of the Oregon summer we were leaving behind.

The first photo shows two excited travelers just beginning a long-awaited adventure.

The second shows two rather worn-out old ladies by the end of the flight.