04-18-2025 A Day at the Port of Kalama

We arrived at the Port of Kalama at 12:30 AM on Friday morning while sound asleep.  

Above: When we woke and opened our stateroom draperies, this is what we saw.  

It was another brilliant and sunny day in Northwestern Oregon in the middle of April. The gangway is a special one owned by American Pride, and it can be adjusted to the shoreline based on the current river level.

For whatever reason, neither Mo nor I had heard of the town of Kalama until we read our Columbia River Itinerary.  The main included excursion for this port was a five-hour bus trip to visit Mount Saint Helens, the iconic volcano visible from several vantage points along the river.  As I write this story today, we are just one day short of the 45th anniversary of the calamitous eruption of that volcano on May 18, 1980.

Above: the black cloud of volcanic ash overtaking Moscow Idaho on May 18 1980

I have an interesting reason for marking this anniversary.  I was married at 2 PM on May 18, 1980, just after the volcano blew and the ash turned the skies of our town, Moscow, Idaho, completely black.  It was an interesting day and an even more interesting honeymoon.  My new husband and I were trapped in our small home with my three teenage daughters, my own adopted mother, Lance's mother and step-father, my friend Maryruth, and assorted friends who had traveled from Coeur d'Alene to celebrate with us.  

Above: in front of our house on May 18 1980

Above: Phil and Joanne in the center, Daughter Melody to the right of them, and my dearest friend Maryruth at my wedding on May 18, 1980

Those friends included folks I have mentioned recently in this blog, Phil and Joanne Hartwig.  Phil and Joanne eventually made it back home through all the ash, but we spent three days unable to leave our home unless fully masked, and very few cars were on the road because the ash was causing all sorts of problems.  The airports were closed.  

Above: Notice the black windows outside at 2 PM in the afternoon on May 18 1980

So I do remember this day. I knew St Helens before she blew, and have visited her in the aftermath.  Mo and I have visited a couple of times as well.  Thus, neither of us had any particular need to sit on a bus for the ride up the mountain. We learned later that the Visitor Center was still closed for the season, so there was even less reason to visit.

Above: a view of the Mountain Timber Market

Instead, we decided to take another slow day on our own, exploring the Port of Kalama. Before disembarking, we attended a short presentation in the River Lounge touting all the wonders of the area. The town is small, with just over 8,000 residents, but the bustling port of Kalama ranks as the third largest exporter on the U.S. West Coast.  More than 40 onsite tenants at the Port employ more than 1,400 people, creating economic opportunities and beautiful recreational facilities that draw visitors from around the Northwest.  

Our narrator explained the complexity of building the Mountain Timber Market building, intended to house the 140-foot-tall Lelooska Totem Pole.  The building cost more than 22 million dollars, and Mo and I both wondered how such a building was financed.  The person representing the town said, "We paid cash".  Wow.  She informed us that the town has a very large disposable income because of the busy port, and they are continuously building and updating public areas to draw in tourists.

The town also built the Port of Kalama Interpretive Center, with exhibits that tell the story of how transportation formed the way the Port and the City of Kalama came to be.  The Center includes immersive display models, replicas, and educational videos. 

After our introductory lecture, Mo and I were looking forward to visiting the beautiful waterfront park, exploring the Public Market at the Mountain Timber Market Building, and enjoying a day that might include a bit of shopping.

Above: the Port of Kalama from the Sky Lounge Deck on American Pride, 

We exited the ship and walked to the Timber Market Building first.  It was big and it was impressive, but the shopping experience was a bit thin.  There were a few small shops, the sort that would need a much bigger population base in order to be successful.  We visited with a few of the shopkeepers and learned that the city had offered grants to the owners in order to make their businesses viable for a few years while the area is being developed.

The Lelooska Totem Pole was definitely impressive, and we laughed after learning that in order to fit it into the building, they had to extend the building a few feet.  The 140-foot Lelooska totem pole, initially located at the Port of Kalama, was taken down in 2018 due to structural concerns caused by weathering and potential safety risks. After being removed, the pole underwent a restoration process led by Chief Lelooska's family, including re-carving and surface work. The restored totem pole was then moved into the Port of Kalama's Mountain Timber Market in 2023, where it now hangs horizontally from the ceiling. The rededication ceremony took place on February 16, 2024. 

 

At one time, there were three totem poles at the port, and two of the shorter ones still remain upright. All of them were carved in the early 1960s by artist Don Smith and were designed to encompass Native American lore and tradition. Smith began work on them for display at the Seattle World’s Fair in 1962, but did not finish in time. Don Smith was not a Northwest Coast Indian but was adopted by the Kwakiutl tribe as an honorary chief in the 1970s. He took the name “Chief Lelooska,”

Above: one of the two remaining LaLooska totem poles still standing in the port

In 1977, Chief Lelooska and his family established the Lelooska Foundation, and each spring they welcome visitors to their Cultural Center in Ariel, Washington.  There, they host living history performances in the fire-lit replica of a Kwa’kwaka’wakw ceremonial house.  Visitors are treated to dramatic narration and dance presentations of traditional Northwest Coast Ceremonial Dances.    Though Don Smith died in 1996, the Foundation still carries on its educational mission, and the Cultural Center, operated by Chief Lelooska’s family, continues to present living history performances each spring.

Above: A traditional "real" totem pole I photographed in Ketchikan, Alaska, in 2010

Traditional totem poles are protected due to their significant cultural, historical, and spiritual importance to Native American communities, as well as their value as artistic expressions and traditional crafts. They serve as visual representations of tribal histories, legends, and social structures, often depicting ancestral figures, animals, and mythological beings. Because these totem poles in the park were works of art rather than traditional, they are not protected in the same way

In Native American culture, totem poles serve as visual records of stories, legends, and teachings passed down through generations. They depict family crests, hereditary titles, and social hierarchies within a tribe. The symbols and names on totem poles are often tied to tribal languages, helping to preserve these languages and oral traditions. Totem poles are powerful visual reminders of a tribe's roots, history, and cultural values. Totem poles can be used in ceremonies and rituals to connect with ancestors and spirits. The figures and symbols on totem poles often represent spiritual entities or animals with sacred meanings. 

As is true of other forms of Native American art and objects, some totem poles have been taken from their original communities by colonial forces and are now in museums or private collections. Efforts are underway to repatriate these poles to their rightful owners.  

It was surprising to us that in her presentation, the representative of the community of Kelowna never mentioned the fact that the LeLooska poles were simply works of art rather than traditional sacred totem poles. 

However, simply as a work of art by Don Smith, the LeLooska Totem Pole is magnificent, with 140 feet of carving and painting representing traditional stories and mythology. 

After exploring the Mountain Timber Market building, we stepped outside to the heady fragrance of a taco food truck.  Lunch was free on the ship just a few hundred yards away, but I couldn't resist the charcoal-broiled beef and homemade salsas with fresh corn tortillas.  Heaven!

We then continued our exploration of the port by walking to the opposite end of the park to visit the Port of Kalama Interpretive Center.  The highlight of the center is the huge steam locomotive called the SP&S 539. Once again, we laughed at the story we were told about how the engine didn't fit the building and they had to retrofit the Center to get it inside. This locomotive was built in 1917 and previously operated by the Spokane, Portland & Seattle Railway. It was part of the Grand Canyon Railway before being purchased by the Port of Kalama in 2019. The locomotive was moved to Kalama in March 2020.

The center was open and well built, with large rooms for community meetings and other spaces for educational lectures.  The displays were interesting, but after our spectacular visit to the Maritime Museum in Astoria, we were a bit disappointed.  All the talk about what was available at the port was a bit exaggerated.  The park was lovely, the buildings were spacious and well built, but the sense is that they need a bit of time to grow into themselves.

The most interesting building at the port, however, is the beautiful McMenniman's Kalama Harbor Lodge.  Situated between Kalama's landmark totem poles and the Port of Kalama's Interpretive Center lies the lodge.  Opened in 2018, the Harbor Lodge was inspired by the Hawaiian heritage of John Kalama, founder of the town, while the property's architecture was inspired by the Pioneer Inn in Lahaina, Maui. 

Above: Pioneer Inn in Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii

We learned that after the fires that destroyed the Pioneer Inn, there were no blueprints left to use to restore it.  The people of Lahaina requested blueprints from McMenniman's and are using them to bring the restoration of the Pioneer Inn as close as possible to the original.

Above:  Back to our lovely American Pride

We enjoyed our simple day at the Port of Kalama, with plenty of time for walking in the sunshine, watching people on the small beach and in the park, and relaxing in the late afternoon before dinner as the ship departed.

Above: Our captain on the left posing for a photo op with a passenger

Dinner was scheduled at 5:30, but also at 5:30, just before departure, the Captain offered an invitation to anyone interested to tour the bridge.  There were about 30 of us who crowded into the room to hear his stories.  Our captain has worked on the Columbia River for more than ten years and is considered one of the best navigators of the great river.  Before beginning his tour on the Pride, he was captain of the Song of America, a bigger and newer ship.  He said he didn't have a favorite, with each ship having its own personality and quirks. 

Above:  American Jazz (same vintage as the Song) moored across from us at the Port of Kalama

Above: Departing the Port of Kalama

After our bridge visit, we went down to dinner, a bit late but still in time to get great food and excellent service at a table with friends we met at previous meals.  

The dinner menu entrees:  

Seared Columbia River Steelhead Trout, served with Smoked Salmon Ragout, Blistered Baby Heirloom Tomatoes, Cheese Tortellini, and English Pea Puree

Veal Schnitzel with Bacon and Thyme Gnocchi served with Braised Washington Apples, Red Cabbage, and a Lemon Caper Butter Sauce.

Red Wine Braised Short Ribs of Beef served with Eagle Eye Farms Whipped Kennebec Potatoes, Roasted Broccolini, and Braising Jus (Mo and I each chose this entree)

Sun-Dried Tomato Risotto with Asparagus topped with Crispy Leeks and Shaved Parmesan.

As you can see, there is a vegetarian option, as was the case for all meals.  I would think this menu rivals any we have enjoyed on much bigger ships, and the food was delicious.

After dinner, Mo and I decided to go to the River Lounge on the Second Deck for cocktails and entertainment.  The cocktails are complimentary, with a specialty herbal mojito, which was superb.  But it was the entertainment that was so good that Mo turned to me and said, "This is worth the cost of the entire trip!"  

Mario Carboni the "Honky Tonk Rebel"

Above: piano with one hand and trumpet with the other, and both to perfection while he added some lyrics 

That might have been a bit of an exaggeration, but not much.  We listened to some incredible music by Mario Carboni, with piano that rivaled Jerry Lee Lewis, and a voice as smooth as butter singing songs we knew and loved.  In addition, the guy was funny, REALLY funny, and we laughed out loud many times. He was so good that we even bought his CD, which he joked about, saying "No one has CD players anymore", even though we no longer have a CD player except in our car.  

The evening put a great spin on what had been a fairly quiet day, and we knew that we would be sure to get good seats for his performance the next evening, our last of the cruise.