Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta

Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta
Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta

Tuesday, October 8, 2019

10-08-2019 A Week in New Mexico During the Balloon Festival Part 1

I am writing this blog about the rest of our week in Albuquerque a bit late, on a quiet Thanksgiving morning at Sunset House in Grants Pass.  It has been more than six weeks since we returned from New Mexico, and writing from photos and notes leaves a bit to be desired.  This post is a labor of love, with maybe a bit more labor than love, as I attempt to recreate the whirlwind of activities that filled the rest of our week in New Mexico.

Adventure Caravans made sure that we didn’t have any complaints about too much down time.  Each day was booked solid with interesting activities, some more than others.  As I look back, and read my notes, reviewing the photos to jog my memory, I can see why I have avoided writing this post.  So much and so fast, and crunched into a very few days is a lot to put together. 

I know better, I know that cryptic notes don’t do the job and I need to actually write the blog as things are happening.  I wouldn’t exactly call this current post a “place holder”, but essentially it is a journal for me to keep things in order, to remember what we did in that busy week after our first breathtaking Balloon Fiesta initiation.

We rose at dawn each morning to watch the dawn patrol, the breathtaking mass ascensions, and see the balloons light up with the rising sun over the Sandia Mountains.  A bit of breakfast in the tent, and by 9 or 10, as the balloons returned to the field and the skies emptied, we were on our red bus heading somewhere.  With 150 people to keep entertained, Adventure Caravans had their work cut out.  There were three busses, and we had the same bus each day.  If there is anything I would say about this trip that wasn’t my favorite part, it was the number of people in the group.  It was just much too big for us.  I get it, there is no way that a small group would work in this situation, and I have to give the company great credit for managing all of us as well as they did.

On Monday morning, the 7th, we woke up feeling a bit worn from all the weekend excitement.  The sewage pump truck arrived early and with little fanfare sucked out all the contents of our tanks.  We appreciated the convenience of having two free pump-outs during our time at the fiesta, especially since it is nearly impossible to leave the camping area in a rig to go find a dump during the ten days of the show. 

By 9 we had finished our breakfast at home and lined up for our first bus excursion.  Sometimes when we are traveling with a group, I am having to deal with trying to get a forward seat due to my tendency to get carsick.  When we filled out our forms for Adventure Caravans, they had a space for “motion sickness” which I checked.  Instead of having to wait in line and fight for a forward seat, those of us who had the problem were given special passes and had the same seats throughout the rally.  Such an amazing and simple thing and I appreciated it so very much.

We rode just a few miles toward the center of Albuquerque to visit the Turquoise Museum.  The Turquoise Castle was built as a private residence by an eccentric and very wealthy Albuquerque businesswoman in 2008.  It was purchase by the family and officially opened as the Turquoise Museum in 2019.  The word “family” in the previous sentence has a link, because tracking the history of the Zachary and Lowry extended families including 5 generations who founded the museum is complicated. Prior to the move to the “castle”, the museum was in much smaller venue. Currently there is more than 8,000 square feet of museum space filled to bursting with some of the world’s rarest and most collectible pieces of turquoise and turquoise jewelry.

The educational exhibits include information about the mining, science and grading of turquoise, in addition to lapidary techniques, turquoise imitations and the purported mystical qualities of the stone.  One bit of information that stood out is the fact that only “natural turquoise” is real.  Real turquoise can be anything at all.  It is easy to be duped into buying something that isn’t natural even if it is called “real”.

The castle itself was fascinating, done in the European style of a great castle, filled with antiques, stained glass windows, a gorgeous spiral staircase, and 127 crystal chandeliers.  Hard to imagine that such opulence was only built in 2008!

As we left the main showrooms of the museum, we were funneled into a very tiny commercial area with turquoise for sale.  It was really a disservice to the museum people and to us because we had only a few minutes to get back to the bus and no time at all to peruse the fabulous turquoise items that were displayed.  The museum is near downtown and is definitely worth much more time than we were given.

Feeling a bit sad about our truncated visit to the museum, we once again boarded the red bus for the short trip to Old Town. Like many historic towns in New Mexico, Old Town Albuquerque is built around a plaza.  There are restaurants and shops, and a bandstand in the center of the square. 

Mo and I visited Old Town on our first MoHo cross country trip in 2007, and had delightful memories of a Christmas time supper at the charming Church Street Cafe, located in a house that was built during the founding of Albuquerque sometime after 1706. This would make Casa de Ruiz the oldest residence in Albuquerque and one of the oldest structures in the state of New Mexico.

We thought that going to the café first while the bus loads of tourists wandered around the square would ensure a quick lunch and we could explore afterward.  We were seated almost immediately, and our charming waiter encouraged us to order immediately, before the crowds arrived.  We did so, enjoyed our drinks, and waited, and waited, and waited.  The charming waiter was running around like crazy, and when I finally asked what happened to our meal, he was a bit short, saying, “I will deliver it when I get it!”.  A few minutes later, he humbly offered us a free cocktail, since he realized he had forgotten to place our order. 

We kept our sense of humor, especially after the amazing meal arrived, including “traditional” chile rellenos for me, accompanied by the lightest empanadas I ever tasted. By the time we left the restaurant, the crowds were huge and the wait lines were very long.

After lunch we listened to the mariachi music in the plaza for a time before wandering around the block enjoying the window displays.  This photo feels much like how I felt in Old Town, overloaded with touristy displays and too many people.  Unlike the Turquoise Museum where we felt entirely too rushed, we felt as though there was too much free time in Old Town and no place that we cared to explore among all the shops and tourists. 

Once again the group piled into the buses and we were taken just a short way north of town to the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center.  There was a store, some interesting exhibits, and some dancing, but nothing that I would consider spectacular.

The dancing wasn’t specific to the Pueblo tribes, which seemed a bit strange to me.  Some of the art was beautiful, and I especially enjoyed the play of light and shadow on this mural on one of the exterior walls.

At the end of the performance, they encouraged everyone to join in the Friendship Dance, another somewhat generic dance that we see often at Native American gatherings, not specific to the Pueblo tribes. Our new friends Elsie and Laura enjoyed the dancing. Elsie and Laura are friends from Southern California who often travel together.  They were parked just a couple of spots from us at the camping area and we enjoyed their company during the rally.

October 8 Sandia Peak

We woke to cloudy skies in the west and predictions of rain for later in the day.  Thankfully the predictions were wrong, and the rains never interfered with our trip to the top of Sandia Peak via the Sandia Tramway.

We were glad to be with a tour group when we arrived at 9am on Tuesday morning.  It was a popular destination that morning during the Balloon Festival and the lines were hours long.  People were waiting three hours for tickets, and as we stood in our line to board, we heard that all tickets for the day had been sold out. Instead of the long wait, within an hour we were in a cable car heading to the top of the mountain, from 6500 feet to more than 10,000 feet in elevation in just 15 spectacular minutes.

We spent quite a bit of time trying to pick out the Fiesta grounds far to the west.  None of the binoculars scattered around the platforms were pointed in the direction we needed.

The ride to the top is gorgeous.  We were lucky that the predicted rain never came. We didn’t have a lot of time at the summit, and the only restaurant was extremely busy with a long wait.  It was much more fun to wander around and look at the gorgeous views. 

With beautiful trails extending in all directions from the peak, it looked like a wonderful place for fall hiking, but the short visit limited any hiking and we only managed to walk around a bit before we had to leave. We were warned to be sure to get on the right tram going back down because if we weren’t there when the bus left, we were on our own.  I think we had about 45 minutes at the top before going back down.

I did think that perhaps I could manage to write about our entire Albuquerque week in one blog post, but that was much too optimistic.  Up next, The Turquoise Trail to Santa Fe, visiting the Acoma Pueblo, and meeting with good friends who live in Albuquerque.

I will leave you with a shot of the beautiful night “glow”, where all the the balloons are filled and raised and lit up in time with the music blaring from huge speakers.  The video is on SmugMug, but I actually have no clue how to embed it properly here.

Sunday, October 6, 2019

10-06-2019 The Perfect Box

Current Location: Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta RV Camp 84 degrees F and clear

This might end up being what friend Erin used to call a “teaser”, a blog post to basically catch up on where we are at the moment when there isn’t time to write about how we got here.  As I continue to write, I think this is a bit more than a “teaser”, but if you want to know what I mean by the perfect “box”, read to the end. 

There are just a bit more than 1400 miles between home and Balloon Fiesta Park here in Albuquerque, and the days we spent on the route are well deserving of some blog writing.  Instead, I have tracked my daily notes in Google’s Keep app for future use, uploaded photos from the phone without any processing and held off a bit on managing and processing the camera photos.  After all, days in the wide open and gorgeous Nevada desert and around red rock country in Capitol Reef deserve more than a phone photo.

Although I do have to admit that the Galaxy S9+ does a surprisingly good job at catching the good stuff unaided. For now, however, I will skip the stories of our journey and jump right into the amazing story of this very day.

The Albuquerque Balloon Festival has been one of those places that has meandered around in the back of my mind for years.  I always wanted to see it, but could never quite figure out the logistics of how to actually manage a visit to such a popular and very crowded destination in the MoHo.  We have friends who live here in ABQ and they don’t even go to the festival, crowds too big and traffic completely unmanageable for many locals.  Doesn’t seem to stop the nearly 1 million people who visit this site over the 9 day course of the festival, but it was definitely daunting for us to think about.

Our other friends, John and Carol Herr, who did a lot of blogging in the past, but less so recently, also waxed eloquent on the magnificence of the Balloon Fiesta.  They are true veterans, having visited many times, boondocking in their motorhome, and have learned to manage many of the complexities of camping here.  We listened to their stories, laughed with them and talked about it, and then thought….no way. 

Still, the daydream persisted, and one day last fall Mo said to me, “How would you like to go to the Balloon Fiesta”.  She had read about the trip put on by Adventure Caravans and decided it would be a great way to see the festival without the headaches.  We had thoroughly enjoyed our Rose Parade Rally 2017 experience with Adventure Caravans, so had a general idea what to expect we would get for our investment.

This rally is a bit different, however.  Instead of 25 rigs and 60 or so people and a nice park with hookups, there are 80 rigs and 171 people.  In the desert, in a big dirt parking lot. There is no other way to actually park onsite at the balloon festival, except for a very few elite sites that have hookups that are ridiculously expensive.  Most people sprawled out on the big dirt fields are boondocking.

No so with Adventure Caravans. Several days before we arrived, the staff arrived and set up the huge, climate controlled big tent, giant quiet generators that provide 30 amp power, and great clean water with good pressure.  During the course of our stay we will also get two pump-outs of our tanks, and on days when the balloons aren’t doing much exciting, we will be treated to visits to Old Town Albuquerque, Sandia Mountain Tram, Santa Fe, the Turquoise Museum, and the Pueblo Cultural Center, among other sites.

We are also treated to a 5 am continental breakfast and then hot breakfast at 7:30 to nine for all the folks that headed for the launch field at 5am for Dawn patrol.  We will get a total of 18 meals, entrances to the launch field, and lots of other little side goodies.  We thought it sounded like a great idea, and so far, after the first three days here, we haven’t been disappointed.

The Fiesta grounds are huge.  Not just football field huge, but dozens of football fields huge.  It is almost 2 miles from where we are camped to the launch field, and no way to drive a car in the insane traffic.  Instead Adventure Caravans has golf carts to get us to the shuttle bus near the gate.  The fiesta shuttle busses come through the RV parking areas every 15 minutes during most of the day, and evening but are sometimes full when they get to our area. Of course, we could walk, but that is a LONG walk in dusty crowded conditions, and once inside the launch field grounds, the crowds are so intense that walking is slowed to that bone numbing crawl that will wear you down faster than any mountain hike.

I can’t count the number of times that someone has said to me, “Oh, I don’t like crowds” and so won’t do such and such.  Well, I can’t think of anyone I know who has said, “Oh, I love crowds!”  LOL  We don’t like crowds either, but as in some magnificent European and US locations, sometimes you just have to bite the bullet to experience something amazing.

We arrived a day before the actual rally start date, and two days before the official festival date to try to beat some of the crowds and confusion that happens as it gets closer to opening day.  On Thursday afternoon, many of the rally campsites were already filled and most of the participants had arrived. Once settled into our spot, hookups were simple and efficient, as is the use of space.  We had room for our slide, and if needed we could have put out our awning, but with the sun on the far side of the rig we didn’t need to do so. The spaces are lined out in chalk throughout the RV camping area, not just for us, but for everyone.  There isn’t much space between sites anywhere. 

On that first evening last Thursday, we simply settled in and took some time to recuperate from our days on the road.  Friday morning after waiting for morning traffic to clear on the freeways, we piled into the baby car and headed south and east across the city to Kirtland AFB and the commissary and exchange to stock up on some supplies. We were lucky that morning with the cloudy skies so Mattie could wait in the car while we did our errands.

Errands included lunch at a local fast food eatery that I hesitate to include in the fast food category.  We had a coupon for a free meal included with the purchase of one meal and for under ten bucks we had two incredibly tasty Mexican Plates and a Dos Equis amber beer to wash it down.  The food was fresh made New Mexican, with red and green sauce, and a salsa bar that was varied and perfectly delicious.  The flour tortillas were fresh, hot and handmade.  Fast food?  Wow, I would love to have fast Mexican food like this in my town.  Taco Cabana has several locations in Albuquerque, and if they are anywhere else out west you can bet we will look for them.

Back in the car just in time for a huge downpour, we drove home through the rapidly flooding streets of Albuquerque.  The night before I had put out the rug, but put the chairs under the rig to protect them from the predicted rain.  When we got home, we found that a river of muddy water had run  under our rig, depositing inches of sticky mud on the rug, flood debris on the entry mat, and silty guck on our chairs.  Ugh.  After a day or so of sunshine, it all dried out and Mo managed to sweep most of it away.

It rained hard all night, and the next morning we woke to mostly clear skies.  Everyone was excited for opening day of the festival, and for awhile the flag was green for flying the balloons.  Mo and I had opted to save our entry tickets for the evening, so took our chairs to the edge of the field with many of our co-campers to watch the morning Mass Ascension. 

Instead, we were treated to a stubborn bank of fog and watched only a few balloons ascend into the mist and disappear before the green flag was turned to orange.  The announcement came a bit later, no balloons launched on opening day of the festival.  Not to worry, there were still many days ahead with good predictions for launch.

We spent a nice day walking the Mattie, and then turned on the air for her in the MoHo and started walking to the Balloon Fiesta Museum, on the edge of the launch field but outside the fee area. It costs ten dollars each time you enter the field, and we were provided four tickets by Adventure Caravans with the option for four more if we needed them. We met two nice women from Southern California the day before and met them along the way.  They said, No No, take your car!  There is no traffic right now and plenty of room to park. 

Good idea!  Back to get the car, we drove to the museum to spend almost two hours wandering around looking at the history of ballooning and of the Fiesta.  I learned much I didn’t know about ballooning in general, from the comparison of hot air versus gas balloons, to how the gondola baskets are still all hand woven with wicker.  The envelope, the big colorful thing that holds the hot air or gas, is made of many kinds of materials, but now is usually nylon and the area close to the burners is a fire resistant material called Nomex.

We got back to the rig in time to feed Mattie and then catch a shuttle bus to the launch field for the evening festivities.  The shuttles are local school busses from the city of Albuquerque and are paid for by the Fiesta.  In no time we were deposited at the launch field entrance and immersed into a crowd of humanity only rivaled in my experience by Disneyland or the California State Fair.

At first we had no clue where to go, and simply wandered toward what is called Main Street, a mile long strip of vendors with all the typical fair stuff, including souvenirs and any kind of fair food you could possibly imagine, including the hamburger on a donut, and for me the best of all, a foot long corn dog.  I love corn dogs, a silly thing, but I marked that location in my mind and sure enough, when the fireworks were beginning, I found the corn dog stand.  If you have ever had the delight of perfectly crispy corn bread with a warm perfect center wrapped around a perfectly flavored hot dog, with mustard, you will know what I mean.  If I were vegetarian, corn dogs would make me fall off the wagon for sure.

About half way down the row of tents, we gave up and opted to wander out into the crowds settling down on the very soft thick green grass of the field.  Every possible version of human was out there laughing, talking, taking selfies and photos, lounging on blankets, chairs, blow up thingies that looked like chair balloons, and just standing around waiting.  We had no clue where to be, so we just plopped down on the grass.  Never mind the getting up part, we would manage.

Before long the energy began to shift, and pickups pulling trailers squeezed their way between the people, nudging them out of the way and then opening up their trailers to bring out the basket gondolas, and laying out the envelopes on the grass.  The sea of humanity was simply moved aside for the raising of the balloons.

The process was amazing to watch, with the timing of filling the balloon first with cold air, then lifting it and moving it as it grew, to the moments when the hot propane was shot into the balloon to make it rise.  At the last moment, the pilot has to be ready for the basket to turn upright as he jumps in to manage the balloon while the crew manages the ropes that keep it from taking flight.

All around us the balloons began to fill, with the sound of hot propane shooting into the envelope, and laughter and excitement as more and more balloons began to rise.  They were so close that many were touching, and we wondered how they kept from running into each other.

As sunset approached, the bursts of hot gas lit up the balloons against the sky, with the most amazing blaze of color I have ever experienced. All of a sudden, all the balloons shot flames at the same time, and the synchronized show of light and color began.  All around us there was light and color and shape, and the sound of the flames and the hot gas as the balloons shifted in the breeze and lit up the sky.  This event was called the Twilight Glow.

The balloons don’t fly at night, but with all of them standing in the field and the synchronized blasts of light and color, flying seemed irrelevant.  As the night progressed, the Team Fastrack Skydivers were scheduled to drop.  We walked back toward the tents and stood near the local tv station broadcasting the show live, which was great because we could see inside the airplane carrying the sky divers on the big screen before they jumped from the plane.  High above us, four divers jumped from the plane, first as little red dots of light, and then comet trails of white until suddenly they began shooting amazing fireworks from their packs as they descended to the launch field.  It was a rather amazing and somewhat shocking sight!

Finally the fireworks began, and we watched a bit before beginning the long trek back to the shuttle location.  We turned and watched when the finale came after 15 minutes or so, and saw fireworks lighting up the sky from several directions around the launch field.  I didn’t try to take any photos, since there were so many people, and yes, my legs were burning from the slow walks in slow crowds and of course, there is NO place to sit and rest your body anywhere in this huge crowd.

Arriving at the shuttle site, we found ourselves at the beginning of a very long line of people waiting and had to wander back a long way to get to the end.  A shocking moment as I passed inches within a very familiar face and suddenly John Herr and I recognized each other at the same moment.  Our blogging friends John and Carol were right there in line with their daughter.  We knew they were at the festival, but with all the activities hadn’t made any arrangements to meet officially, saving that for after the festival perhaps.  We hugged and laughed and had some great talks on our way back to the campgrounds. John and Carol are camped with a different RV group, and are not working the festival this time, although they are tail gunners for Fantasy RV Tours, a rival company to Adventure Caravans.

In spite of the lack of balloon launches, it was a gorgeous and exciting day and we were both bone tired when we fell into bed.

This morning, in order to make it to the launch field for Dawn Patrol, Morning Glow, and Mass Ascension, we would have had to catch a park shuttle at 5 am to the field.  It is great to be on the field when the balloons launch, but we decided to save that experience for a later day in the week.  I was feeling poorly, with an upset stomach and the residual effects of a cold I have been fighting for a couple of weeks. On this morning we slept in until 5:30, and with fresh hot coffee in our cups we set our chairs out in the road right in front of our rig to watch the morning festivities.

The folks at Adventure Caravans had told us that we would discover that watching the balloons from where we are located in the campground is often as good as being on the field.  They were right.  As the dawn began to brighten, we saw the Dawn Patrol balloons rising in the growing light, and then the morning glow was partially visible as the balloons began to light up the field. The Dawn Patrol consists of 12 balloons which launch first to determine the conditions for the main balloon flights.

Soon word came that the flag was changed from yellow to green and it was going to be a fly day!  The balloons began to rise in the early light, more and more as the minutes passed.  It was mesmerizing.  When the sun at last peaked over the Sandia Mountains and lit up the brilliant colors of the balloons against the sky it just got better and better.  Some of the balloons flew right over our campsite, others landing a bit early in the big field across from us, others continuing south on the wind before returning.

Now, about that “box”.  The winds in Albuquerque sometimes do a perfect thing for ballooning.  The winds close to the surface will blow south, but just 200 feet up, they can be blowing north at the same time.  The balloonists fly south on the low winds, and when they are ready to turn, they fill their balloons with big bursts of hot air to rise quickly to the winds blowing in the opposite direction.  So it is a pattern of flying south low in the sky, rising up vertically, then flying north up high in the sky, and sometimes flying back down very close to the original launch position.  That is “the box”, and today Albuquerque provided a perfect box for the festival, and we were lucky enough to be right here for the beautiful flights.

We have much more happening as the week progresses, but if nothing else happened, our balloon glow last night and Mass Ascension today are no doubt the highlight of our Balloon Fiesta experience.

Monday, September 30, 2019

09-30-2019 Three Days in Capitol Reef NP

09-30-2019  Three Days at Capitol Reef National Park in Utah

The nights were cold at Capitol Reef during the time we were there.  I woke up at 3AM, cold and achy, and turned on the furnace to warm things up and slept great until 8am.  Generators can run only from 8 to 10 AM or from 6 to 8 PM.  We don’t have solar on the MoHo, so do need to run the generator periodically to keep her charged up.  It also comes in handy to make coffee.  We used to do pressed coffee, but I got tired of dealing with the grounds all the time, so enjoy having the electric pot around. 

The Gifford House opened at 8:30, and I knew that they had great pies made from the fruit grown in the historic orchards in the park.  When I went over to buy a nice little apple pie, they told me that they sold over 40,000 of those pies during this past season.  Wow!  Made me wonder where all those pies were made. 

I drove up to the visitor center to check for maps, brochures, and of course, tee shirts.  Got a really cute one but it turned out to fit Mo better than me, so she lucked out.  We decided that this day would be an easy one, where we would give ourselves a break and simply meander around the local roads and enjoy the stunning red cliffs.

We left Mattie in the MoHo just in case we decided to do a bit of hiking, but with my knee and Mo’s ankle, hiking was kept to a minimum.  It is hard to accept sometimes that we are slowing down, especially in this last year or so.  I might be heading toward knee surgery before too long, I do miss all the hiking we used to do.

It was a perfect day for driving the Scenic Drive, a 20 mile round trip road that extends south toward Capitol Gorge, and passes several trailheads along the way, including the gorgeous trail through Grand Wash.  Mo and I hiked Grand Wash on a previous trip, but for who knows what reason, we have never hiked the easy .8 mile trail into Capitol Gorge.

There wasn’t too much traffic during the early portion of our drive, and we took our time meandering along, getting out at all the wide places in the road to enjoy the views and walk around a bit.  By the time we got to Capitol Gorge, the parking lot was jammed with cars and motorhomes, including quite a few CruiseAmerica rental units.  We drove part way down the dirt road and were extremely surprised to see some folks with motorhomes trying to drive it.  With all the people around, it wasn’t that exciting to get out of the car to try to walk around, and we turned around and meandered back home. 

We were home in time for a great tuna sandwich lunch, and then took Mattie on the 2 mile round trip dog friendly trail from the campground to the visitor center. I was surprised how warm it was in the sunshine, and Mattie loved it.  With all the walking trouble I have been having lately, I was glad to at least get in almost 2 miles.  I did have to make use of my walking sticks and the rest benches scattered along the trail.  Geez.  Anyone who knows me very well knows this isn’t like me, or at least it didn’t used to be like me.

After returning to the MoHo for a short nap, (remember we said it was going to be an easy tourist day!) we drove toward the western edge of the park to walk up to the Goosenecks Overlook and Sunset Point trails.  In all my years visiting Capitol Reef, I have never walked these short trails. 

I was amazed at how beautiful the view was from Sunset Point, with Mt Ellen in the distance and the red cliffs of Capitol Reef above the deep canyon of the Goosenecks below us.  We encountered a lovely couple from the east coast, traveling for the first time in Capitol Reef, and learned they had been to Zion and had hiked Angel’s Landing!  They were newly retired, and she said she just never looked down and they went early enough in the morning to miss most of the scary crowds.  I was impressed, to say the least.

Home by sunset for steaks on the grill at our picnic table on the wrong side of the MoHo.  Our camping neighbors were uncomfortably close in their tent so I introduced myself, apologized for the genny noise, and gave them some of our homemade chocolate chip cookies. They insisted they didn’t mind in the least, and told stories of how their 2 year old little boy hiked all day in the canyons with them.  Nice to have friendly neighbors if they are going to be that close to us.

On our way home returning along Highway 24 to the campground, Mo looked up at a lovely formation and said, “That looks like it should have a name, like the Castle or something”.  We got the best laugh of our day when we approached a turnout with a sign pointing to, you guessed it, “The Castle”.

10-01-2019 Day Trip Boulder Mountain-Burr Trail-No Tom Loop

We woke conveniently at 8 AM, just in time to turn on the generator and heat our coffee. I took Mattie for a nice walk around the campground and returned to our simple bacon and apple pie breakfast.  We gathered up some drinks and snacks and Mattie, and left for our planned road trip sightseeing day by 10.

The morning was cool enough that there was frost under the sprinklers in Torrey and Boulder, but the sun was gorgeous. We took Scenic Highway 12 south from Torrey to Boulder Town, at the beginning of the Burr Trail.  The skies in the canyons the previous two days had been so incredibly clear and blue, I was a bit disappointed to see all the haze toward the east from the high viewpoints on Boulder Mountain. 

The aspens were starting to turn, but weren’t as brilliant as I remembered from past years. In spite of the haze I never tire of the views of Canyon Country from Boulder Mountain. I love seeing all the landmarks that I know so well, especially Mt Ellen, right in the center of everything.  I drove up that mountain only once, back in the days when my 94 Dakota was having a bit of engine trouble.  Had to get a new engine when I got home from that trip, and I’ll never forget the gasping sound of the poor thing trying to make it over Mt Ellen.

Another place I have never visited in all my years traveling through this landscape is the Anasazi Museum in Boulder.  The entry fee is just $5. and is well worth it.  The museum is done well, with great information.  One of the parts I loved was the comparison of archeologists view of the Anasazi and the Native American view of the same history. 

Sadly, however, many of the display cases were empty, with captions describing what would eventually be in them.  Currently the museum is trying to fulfill the environmental requirements to protect the artifacts that will eventually be housed there.

Another first on the list for the day, was lunch at Hell’s Backbone Grill, a very famous restaurant located at the beginning of the Burr Trail in Boulder.  The restaurant was charming, and most of the food is locally sourced from their own farm.  The women who started the restaurant have become very well known in the localvore food scene, and have won all sorts of national awards.

Mo had a salad, and I had some rather incredible pumpkin corn enchiladas with habanero cream sauce. My meal was different, interesting and tasty, fun to try, but I might not have to do it again.  The place is rather expensive but it was nice to say that we ate there at least once.

After lunch we meandered down the famous Burr Trail through the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument.  In the old days when I first started driving this road, it was all dirt, 75 miles of dirt all the way to the switchbacks.

On this day, for Mo and I, the road was paved and an easy drive.  We found several boondock sites near Cottonwood Canyon, and enjoyed the magnificent drive through Long Canyon.  This 7 mile stretch is breathtaking, and may have the reddest rocks anywhere.

Once we reached the Capitol Reef park boundary, the road was no longer paved, and we continued to the overlook of the famous switchbacks of the Burr Trail.  I love this place so very much.  Nearby is the trailhead for Muley Twist, and to the north of the road is the Strike Overlook.  I would love to boondock again in the BLM land just west of the park boundary and spend days wandering around the wild red rock country. 

This day was our road trip day, however, and we descended the Switchbacks with Mo driving and me trying to take pictures out the window.  It was fun, and I didn’t even remember to count just how many switchbacks there were in the 1 mile long 12 percent drop to the valley floor.  I think there are at least 9.  They are tight, but not as tight as some on the Schaeffer Trail in Canyonlands that require a three point turn in a pickup to navigate.  We didn’t have to back up even once.

Once on the valley floor, the magnificent nearly vertical slabs of overlapping sandstones that form the Waterpocket Fold are dramatically visible.  The Fold is almost 100 miles long, and is the main geologic feature that forms the dramatic landscape that is called Capitol Reef.  The No Tom road follows the north-south extent of the fold from Highway 24 at the north end to Lake Powell at the southern end.  The scenery is magnificent, stunning vistas open up at every turn, and secret canyons disappear into the fold to the west of the sometimes rough and washboarded dirt road.  I took a fifth wheel on that road with my friend Shera, only once, and will never do that again.  I think when we reached Lake Powell all her valances were on the floor and most of the blinds were shaken loose in her trailer. 

Needless to say, we won’t take the MoHo down the No Tom road, even though there is a sweet little campground called Cedar Mesa about midway along the route.

We arrived back in the campground by 5, in time for a supper of leftover steak and played a half a hand of cards.  We were tuckered out and in bed by 8pm.

10-02-2019 Leaving Capitol Reef heading toward New Mexico

We woke again to a frosty morning.  Packing up for the road was easy while we waited for the 8am generator time to make some coffee and homemade grilled sausage mcmuffin’s for breakfast. On the road by 8:30, I drove first toward Hanksville for fuel, and then turned south on Highway 95. I drove first since I was beginning to feel a little bit better, at least in the mornings. 

Highway 95 traverses some of the most beautiful scenery in Utah, crossing the Dirty Devil River, and the Colorado River, gradually climbing upward toward Cedar Mesa and the Bears Ears.  Part way down the road, we stopped to hike at a small canyon wayside, but changed our minds when we saw that the hike would require quite a bit of wading.  It wasn’t a hiking day, it was a travel day, and we really didn’t want to change our clothes to prepare for a wading type of hike. 

As we were contemplating our choice, we met a lovely young Israeli girl who was traveling the US by herself for a year.  It was delightful to talk with her about her adventures, and to tell her about some of what she might find on her way north into Capitol Reef.

Highway 95 crosses the Colorado River at Hite, and the beautiful bridge brought back lovely memories.  After being on the Colorado River for 6 days in a raft, the bridge at Hite was the first sign of civilization we had encountered as our raft trip came to an end. 

Hite Crossing Bridge from the Colorado River in 1993

The other sight I will never forget is the pointed peak of Mt Ellen, in the Henry’s, viewed through the canyon walls from the raft. Our guides always loved to see the Henry Mountains as they rafted downriver, it meant they were getting close to Hite.

  First view of the Henry Mountains from the Colorado River 1993

We stopped along the road for lunch with a great view of the famous or should I say infamous Bears Ears.  Anyone not aware of the controversy surrounding the Bears Ears National Monument should read up on it.  Or better yet, maybe they could wander around Cedar Mesa for a time and see the countless archeological sites that appear at every bend of the trail.

The rest of the afternoon after we reached Highway 191 south of Blanding was much less spectacular.  I navigated as Mo drove, following the Google recommendations for getting to Shiprock on the shortest route.  There are several choices, and I don’t think any of them were particularly easy.  Our choice to take roads that traversed the Navajo reservation through the ups and downs and crooked bumpy pavement wasn’t the best. 

We noticed that the air was getting more murky the farther east we traveled toward New Mexico.  Roads were rough through the rest of Utah, through the tiny part of Colorado that we traversed, and into New Mexico toward Shiprock.  We were happy to finally arrive at Kirtland, our destination for the evening, just east of the city of Farmington.  Homestead RV Park had great reviews, and I would have to agree.  Sites were level, hookups were great, everything was well kept and the owner and manager were very helpful.  It may be just a gravel parking lot, but it is a good place to land for a quick overnight with full hookups after being away from such amenities for a few days.

On October 3rd we traversed northern New Mexico, and arrived at Albuquerque around mid day to settle in for the next ten days on the grounds of the Balloon Fiesta.  I know things are a bit out of order here, since I decided to write about the beginning days of the Balloon Fiesta before backtracking to write about the rest of our trip.  You can find that post here.