Winter Sunshine

Winter Sunshine
Winter Sunshine in the Desert

Thursday, March 7, 2024

03-01-2024 Mo's Birthday Trip


It has become a tradition for the last few years:  Mo will start thinking in January about where she might like to spend her March birthday and what she would like to do.  


Sometimes, as we did last year, the trip involves several days of camping and we traveled north to the part of Oregon where Mo was raised. We camped on nearby Sauvie Island and spent a few days exploring the places that Mo remembered from her youth


One year we spent a very cold and windy day playing in the snow at Crater Lake.


In 2021 Mo decided that we should spend a day exploring some of the covered bridges in Southern Oregon. 


One year we drove over the pass toward Klamath Falls and ended up spending a beautiful starry night at a wonderful campsite in Lava Beds National Monument.

Whether we are at home, or traveling the country, most often Mo will decide in advance what kind of day she would like to celebrate her birthday.  The one thing that I can be sure of is that under NO circumstances is there to be any kind of a party for her. That is the only request that she is adamant about.  Most often we will celebrate with a nice restaurant meal.  I have come to look forward to her birthdays, and to enjoying whatever outing she plans for us to share.  This birthday was no exception. 

Mo decided this year that she would like to explore some ghost towns.  She did as she often does, researching extensively to learn about places to visit.  The problem was that there are not a lot of ghost towns in this part of Oregon that have buildings that are still standing.  

Mo did find some historical sites to visit that were interesting to explore, and a couple of them were places that we have passed many times driving here and there without paying much attention to the history.


Our first stop on our birthday tour was the small community of Rock Point, Oregon.  Rock Point is just north of the junction of Interstate 5 and Oregon Highway 99 along the Rogue River.  The small community was founded by John B White, who fought in the Rogue Indian Wars.  In exchange for his service, he was awarded land in this location and developed a homestead on the north side of the old stage road now in the vicinity of Highway 99 and continues on a road fittingly known as "Old Stage Road".


We read that there was a tavern and a stage stop and that John B White was the postmaster.  We also read that the tavern and stage stop were still standing, but there was no actual location for the existing buildings listed.  Imagine our surprise to discover that the existing tavern and stage stop was now the location of the beautiful tasting room for Del Rio Vineyards, a site we have passed often without a clue of the history behind the building.

Mo also wanted to visit the beautiful and historic bridge built in 1919, famous for its lovely arches.  Unbeknownst to us, we have traveled over this bridge countless times without a clue about its history.  We never had a clue that beneath us as we crossed the bridge were the lovely arches that made the bridge so special.  


We exited our normal route toward Gold Hill near the winery and parked along the old road to walk beneath the bridge.  Even though it had snowed earlier that day, the sun was brilliant and the snow was melting enough that walking around wasn't terribly difficult.

Mo also read about the Dardanelles Post Office in the community of Dardanelles, which we discovered was simply an extension of Rock Point, or what it was once called, "Point of the Rocks".  The old post office just across the river opposite Rock Point still stands and is now a convenience store and gas station.  The original postmaster was none other than J.B. White himself.


Another site in Rock Point that we have passed many times is the historic Rock Point Cemetery. More than 100 years ago, a local landowner deeded 26 acres of land for a cemetery just south of the tavern and stage stop.  Part of the cemetery land was deeded to the IOOF and that side was maintained but another section became known as the Pioneer Cemetery and declined.  In 1955 a group of citizens got together, cleaned up the cemeteries, and recorded tombstones and grave markers.  There are many stories still out there about hauntings, including eerie lights and sounds and a green fog that suddenly appears.  




On this lovely sunny, chilly day, we saw no evidence of hauntings but thoroughly enjoyed viewing the old gravestones and inscriptions in the part of the cemetery that we visited.


The ghost town of Golden is north of Grants Pass near Wolf Creek, but Mo didn't want to go that far north so visiting that ghost town will have to wait for another day.  The second ghost town that remains in our area is Buncom, Oregon.  

We continued south along Old Stage Road toward Jacksonville and decided that traveling to Buncom via Sterling Creek Road would allow us to avoid backtracking as we left Buncom.  Sterling Creek road is narrow and winding and crosses some steep hills as it leads toward the old ghost town in what is now called the Little Applegate.


As the road climbed the hills, the snow got deeper until we decided it was snowy enough to kick in the ECT drive on the car, which helps in snowy conditions.  By the time we got to Buncom, however, there was no sign of snow and the sun was again shining brilliantly.


The tiny town of Buncom was settled in the 1850s by Chinese miners.  Locals got wind of the find, pushed out the Chinese, and established a general store, a saloon, and a post office before the 1900's.  In 1918, however, the town was abandoned because the region's gold dried up.  Shortly after that, many of the remaining buildings in the town were destroyed by a fire.  Only three buildings survived, the town post office, a wooden bunkhouse, and an old cookhouse.


In 1990, the Buncom Historical Society was formed by local residents who wished to preserve what remained.  Beginning in 1993, they organized the first "Buncom Day", an all-day annual affair designed to promote interest in local history.  There are events including a BBQ, a parade, a petting zoo, and craft and food booths.  According to something I read, up to 500 people attend to help raise money to preserve the buildings of Buncom and promote the history of the Little Applegate Valley.



Mo and I sometimes enjoy attending local gatherings like this but the last Buncom Day information I could find was from 2016.  I also found a notice indicating that Buncom Day 2023 has been postponed indefinitely.    Perhaps Buncom Day is going the way of Buncom town and may only be a memory.


No matter.  We thoroughly enjoyed walking around the old buildings in the sunshine, imagining the life that was once there.  Mattie thought the place was great as well since it allowed her to get out of the car and run around a bit.

The next town on Mo's list wasn't an actual ghost town, but the Ruch area had several buildings listed that were of historical significance.  The town was originally named after Casper M. Ruch, who bought a tract of land in 1896 where the community now stands.  

The Historic McKee Bridge at Christmastime

Mo and I have traveled through Ruch many times on our way to visit the McKee Bridge, listed on the National Register of Historic Places.  The local people decorate the bridge at Christmas time and it is always fun to drive south on a snowy day to see the bridge decorations.  

Ruch is also of significance to me personally since it is the town where my youngest daughter Melody moved to from Eastern Washington in the mid-90s.  I lived nearby at the time and I was devastated that she had to move so many hundreds of miles away from me.  I visited later that year and still remember she and her husband at the time and the little house they lived in. I often point out the driveway when Mo and I drive through Ruch and always am grateful that we are now only separated by 3 hours instead of 800 miles.  

Sweets-n-Eats in Ruch, Oregon for lunch

There are at least 8 historic markers within 7 miles of Ruch, but since we were looking for ghost towns rather than old town sites, we decided to stop at the local store for a bit of lunch instead.  Lunch was delightful, as we shared a hot dog between us before continuing on our journey.


Our next stop was the small community of Provolt where the Provolt Country Store is located on the Jackson/Josephine county line.  Local lore says Samuel Provolt, who established the store in 1875, later moved the store from Jackson County so that it would be in Josephine County because the taxes in Jackson County were getting too high.  This is an interesting story because, at this time, taxes in Josephine County are generally much lower than taxes in Jackson County.

The store has been a hub of local commerce continuously ever since it was established in 1875. It is thought to be the oldest continuously operating establishment in Southern Oregon selling an eclectic mix of convenience foods and nuts and bolts. 

The post office was established in 1895 and the first postmaster was Mary Provolt.  That post office was discontinued in 1955.  The historic Provolt Store is a popular site in Jackson/Josephine County, where people journey from town to enjoy the old-fashioned store and its popular delicatessen.  We visited the store once during our travels along Highway 238 through the Applegate Valley and didn't feel a need to go inside on our visit this time.  We were still full from our hot dog lunch and knew that suppertime wasn't far off.


North of the store, we drove a little bit further to discover a place new to us, the Provolt Recreation Site, a BLM Day use area with bike trails, walking trails, and picnic areas adjacent to the Applegate River.  It was quite chilly and beginning to rain, but we could see how it might be a fun place to visit on a hot summer day.

Our final destination for the day was at the northern end of the Applegate Valley and is a place that will be familiar to friends and readers of this blog.  We arrived at Schmidt Family Winery in time to get a nice indoor table near the fireplace to wait for daughter Deborah to arrive.  Deb agreed to come to help celebrate Mo's birthday with wine and pizza at Schmidt and when she walked in the door she was carrying a beautiful bouquet of birthday flowers.


The music was perfect for the evening, the company was great, and the wine and pizza were delicious as always.  The entire day had been wonderful, without any mix-ups or surprises.  Mo does a great job planning these birthday trips and she said she was very happy with how the day turned out.  

Next year we will be in Desert Hot Springs and I look forward to seeing what Mo comes up with for us to do then. 

Thursday, February 15, 2024

02-15-2024 Home Again Home Again

Sunset on the Kofa Mountains is a nice memory 

Sitting at my desk at the moment listening to the rain on the windows.  It has been raining for a few days now, so very much needed and yet it can still get a bit tiresome.  I am grateful for the time Mo and I had in mostly warm sunshine in the southern deserts this winter.  It is all about the timing.  This year we were lucky as we crossed the passes on I-5 toward home.  There was snow all around us, but nothing on the roads and the skies over Southern Oregon were a gorgeous blue last Thursday when we returned. We even had a couple of sunny days to enjoy before the rain started.

Coming home was especially sweet since daughter Deborah decided that she would stay with us until the weekend before she packed up her "stuff" to take back home after spending most of her time at Sunset House while we were gone.  It was wonderful coming home to a warm, clean, and cozy house, without a single worry about anything that may have gone wrong while we were traveling. 

Once we arrived home, Mo and I unloaded the MoHo in record time, and by the time Deborah got home from work I had some hot soup ready for supper for the three of us to share.  I am so glad that Deb is willing to housesit for us.

Our boondock site near Palm Canyon Road in Kofa NWR

Last week, after four days in Tucson, we traveled west on Interstate 8 toward Yuma and then north on Highway 95 between Yuma and Quartzsite to spend a couple of quiet nights in the wonderful desert landscape in the Kofa National Wildlife Refuge.  Mo and I have visited Kofa in the past, but have never attempted to boondock there.  This time, however, we had some help from our friend Gaelyn, who has a special spot near Palm Canyon Road.  Gaelyn agreed to wait for us at the intersection of Highway 95 and Palm Canyon Road and then lead us to a perfect site with a nice fire ring, an unobstructed view of the Kofa Mountains, and plenty of level places to park our rigs.


Gaelyn parked a respectable distance away from us, but not so far that we couldn't enjoy morning coffee and conversation, and evening visits by the campfire.  Mo loves to build campfires, and she purchased some firewood at the base in Tucson just in case we could have one.  Sure enough, on BLM land just on the edge of the refuge, campfires are allowed in existing fire rings.


Our days were relaxed and the warm air was perfect for afternoon naps, some reading, and a little card playing before we cooked supper and then enjoyed the fire with Gaelyn.  We shared dinners before the campfire. Gaelyn prepared dinner the first night and I made dinner the second night. The nights were perfect as well, getting down to the mid-40s for comfy sleeping.



It was great talking with Gaelyn in person, with time to hear the stories of her recent life changes since her truck and camper burned last fall.  Despite the awful loss from the fire, the outcome has been rather positive, and she has made a great group of new friends and has a nice upgraded rig to make her life a bit easier than it has been.  


Leaving Kofa and driving north through Quartzsite toward Parker, we traveled west toward Needles and Barstow on I-40.  It was a long day from Arizona across the desert to Tehachapi, but we had reservations at the small park we found last winter.  

The rain across the desert was heavy throughout most of the day, but the roads were in good shape and we didn't have any problems despite the dire warnings coming to our phones.

We slept well in the quiet park, and the sound of the rain on the roof throughout the night was soothing.  The worst of the Atmospheric River passed through California on Sunday and Monday, and by Tuesday, when we crossed the pass on Highway 58 the clouds lifted and we could see all the way across the Great Valley of the San Joaquin River. 


It isn't often we are treated to clean, clear skies on this part of our drive through California and this time the skies were spectacular.


We pulled into Flag City RV Park in Lodi just after 3 in the afternoon, and to our surprise, the park was emptier than we had ever seen it.  Only a couple more rigs showed up by evening.  


It might have been the severe storm weather that kept people off the road, or possibly there aren't as many people as there used to be. 


We enjoyed a chicken parmesan supper at home in our own cozy space.  No need to go out when I still have some great stuff in the freezer.  I planned fairly well this time around for our month on the road and we returned home with just enough food left in the fridge and freezer.  

We planned two nights in Lodi, with a full day to take our time enjoying one of our favorite locations to buy wine.  We both love good Old Vine Zinfandel and Lodi, California, is the best place in the country for old vines and great wine.  


Once again we visited our favorite little winery, an unpretentious place called Klinker Brick.  We first discovered this winery three years ago and now whenever we pass through Lodi we try to purchase a few bottles of something good from them.  Even on a rainy day, the winery was pleasant.  I think possibly this particular winery might be a local gathering spot since everyone seemed to be chatting and to know each other.  


Fancy charcuterie isn't necessarily a big thing in Lodi, unlike our Applegate Valley wineries.  We were offered packaged cheese and crackers, but it was sufficient for our lunch.  After enjoying Klinker Brick for a time we decided to try another winery in the area that was recommended to us.


Harney Lane Vineyards had a gorgeous tasting room, and the gardens would have been very inviting if it weren't for the rain.  


We were happy to have a roaring fire, with real wood, not gas, and ordered a flight of red to share to try their wines.  The winery was lovely, the sommelier was knowledgeable and helpful, and the ambiance was delightful.  The wine, however, wasn't to our tastes and we didn't buy any.  I guess it is back to Klinker Brink when we return to Lodi.  We do love their wine.

Some of the zinfandel vines in Lodi are more than 120 years old

We left Lodi by 8:30 the next morning, driving north on 5 through Sacramento and then fueling in Dunnigan at the Pilot, where we usually get the best gas price, this time at $3.19 per gallon.  Dunnigan is a good place to fuel for us because a tank will then get us all the way home to Grants Pass where we no longer have to pay inflated California fuel prices.  I will say that prices this year were a bit higher than in Oregon, but nothing like it has been in past years when we have traveled in California.

Starting down the last pass on I-5 just an hour south of home

As I said when I first started writing, it was wonderful to be home, wonderful to know that Deborah would be sharing the evening with us, happy to listen to our stories.  

It is good to be home, to have the rain keeping us indoors, with time to relax and recuperate a bit before we start the spring cleanup outside.  


We both had to laugh a bit because Mattie gets a bit disturbed when we get back home after traveling.  She looks around and seems a little bit lost.  All is well by the next morning, and with her routine snuggle time, she is happy as can be.  I am also happy to have my comfy recliner and my warm slippers and a dog in my lap.




Sunday, February 4, 2024

02-04-2024 Wide Open Spaces on Our Way to Tucson and Time With Friends

Camping on Ogilby Road

Our time at Catalina Spa in Desert Hot Springs always feels like desert time.  Palm Springs, Desert Hot Springs, and the entire Coachella Valley are in the desert.  Our morning walks include fields of desert plants like creosote, brittlebush, desert verbena, and an occasional jumping cholla. 


But it takes getting out in the more remote desert landscapes to begin to fully feel the magic of what the desert is really all about.  As we drove south on a Monday morning along the Salton Sea, I looked westward toward Anza Borrego.  Anza Borrego is a magnificent State Park, with thousands of acres of wild and sometimes desolate desert landscape, punctuated by rough, craggy, faulted, and folded desert mountains.  On this trip south, we simply passed by along the western perimeter of the park on our way to a place that for us is the epitome of the perfect desert boondock.

Many years ago, when blogging was still a "thing", many of our fellow bloggers often wrote about boondocking on Ogilby Road.  Nina Fussing (read her review here) seemed to love the area more than anyone, and I would read about her adventures there with Paul and the paws back in the days when they were still traveling in the United States. 


Once again, as we traveled south, I wanted at least one night on Ogilby Road.  We traveled south and east on the back road through the Imperial Dunes that blogger George Yates wrote about and suggested as an alternative to Interstate 8.  This time there was no construction to slow us down and it seemed we crossed the dunes quickly.


Even though we have stayed there a couple of times, it wasn't in Mo's memory banks and it wasn't until we pulled into our empty space in the desert that she understood why I was so attached to staying here. In the past, we parked a few miles closer to the Mexican border where the phones were terribly confused much of the time because they kept trying to say we were in Mexico.  

This time we pulled into an open area on the west side of the road that was completely empty of other campers and found a wide open, perfectly level spot, and parked the rig just in time for supper and a quiet sunset.


The quiet emptiness of the place is mesmerizing, with long shadows reaching for hundreds of feet on the smooth surface of desert pavement created by constant blowing winds. We got lucky, and this time there was no wind during the evening, throughout the night, or the next morning as we departed for the eastern journey along Interstate 8 toward Tucson.

We took our time leaving the quietness of the desert morning.  At first, when we parked and opened the door for Mattie the prior evening after settling in, she seemed completely confused and a bit intimidated by the wide-open spaces in front of her.  By morning she was fine, and wandered the desert freely, looking for the perfect spot to do her morning business.


Within a few short miles, we intercepted Interstate 8 toward Phoenix and Tucson and were delighted with the butter-smooth pavement throughout most of the miles until we reached the convergence of I-8 with the much busier and less smooth I-10 into Tucson.


Completely serviced "rest stops" were few and far between but we did find a couple of "parking areas" with a shade shelter, picnic tables, and garbage containers.  Still don't understand why there is so much garbage all around the area with the giant containers so conveniently located.


It was after 4 when we pulled into the main gate at Davis-Monthan Air Force Base.  Although as a traveling companion to Mo, who is retired military, I am allowed on base as her guest, I must have a special pass to enter.  The visitor center issued the pass, and after a short wait, we were on our way to the eastern edge of the base where the Family Camp is located.  It was a bit confusing at first because I thought it was Apache Flats (which is farther south at Fort Huachuca) then remembered it was Agave Flats, and was more confused when we found the office for the Boneyard Vista RV Park. The name of the park had been changed. In the end, it all worked out and we found a perfectly level spot on the newly graveled surface in the overflow dry camp portion of the park.  There was a waiting list posted on the office door for anyone wanting to get a full hookup site.


We didn't mind dry camping.  The dump and potable water station are very close by, with excellent restrooms and showers and the best laundry we have found anywhere.  Almost immediately after settling in we loaded up our three weeks' worth of laundry and headed for the laundry room.  As I remembered, the machines were all in good working order, the cost was a buck to wash and a buck to dry, and the doors were never locked.  We had plenty of time to finish and fold the laundry before we went to bed that night.

We originally planned to travel east to visit Janna and Mike east of Sierra Vista for a couple of days but Janna had warned us of an impending snowstorm.  We canceled our visit to them for another time and extended our planned stay at the base for an additional day.

Gayle, Mo, and Wes in their Tucson kitchen

With the adjustment in plans, we had plenty of time to spend two full days with our friends Wes and Gayle James and still have an entire day to simply relax, regroup, and prepare for the long journey back west and north toward home in Oregon.

Wes and Galye have been good friends since we were neighbors in Rocky Point, Oregon, where Mo and I lived for many years and Wes and Gayle lived until they moved permanently to Tucson.


It is always a treat to spend time with them, and we both look forward to the amazing meals that Gayle prepares for us.  Gayle loves to entertain, and ever since we have known her we have marveled at her meal-specific dishware, her yummy and interesting meals, and always some amazing dessert to top it off.


We arrived at their home by 10 am and enjoyed snacks and conversation in the shade of the lovely ramada that was new to us and walked around Wes's beautiful gardens of desert plants.  

It was after 1 by the time we got in their comfy car and traveled south to the touristy town of Tubac.


We have visited Tubac twice before, the first time when we were in Tucson in 2011, visiting Mo's friend Joan, and then again in 2018 during a Tucson visit with Wes and Gayle.  Mo and I had a specific reason for visiting Tubac, where there is a plethora of artsy outdoor art mostly from Mexico.  Mo and I purchased two outdoor pieces for our newly built home in 2018 and Mo discovered a spot that needed one additional piece.  We were pretty sure we would find something in Tubac.

Sure enough, at the first shop we visited, we found a beautiful sun and moon sculpture that was exactly the right size for the spot where Mo envisioned it.  Photos will come after we get back home and it is up on the outside wall.

I also found a truly lovely piece of original art which will be photographed and shared once it is in place back at home.


We returned from Tubac in time to relax a bit before dinner.  This time our meal was perfectly prepared lamb chops, which I discovered that I liked after all, fresh asparagus, and roasted potatoes with a delightful poached pear with ice cream for dessert.

It was after 8 when we left their home to return to the base.  Tucson is a 'dark sky city' and it took a bit of getting used to as we attempted to travel the highways and byways back to the base in the dark.

The next day we waited until afternoon to visit and on our way south along Highway 19 saw a large white edifice in the distance that looked like some kind of church.  It was the brilliant white towers of the San Xavier Mission that we saw.  Once at Wes and Gayle's, when we mentioned the place, they were delighted to take us there for a visit.  


Just a few miles north of their home, the mission is historically significant with a fascinating history.  We read on the website that animals were always welcome in the mission so were delighted that Mattie could participate in the outing and not have to wait in a car.  Wes offered to keep her company if there was any part of the mission that she couldn't visit.


As we entered the courtyard, there was a young playful female pup that wanted to play.  We thought she belonged to the couple ahead of us but discovered she was simply a stray dog that was hanging around greeting guests.


The mission was fascinating, but even more so as we entered the chapel.  The incredibly complex painted wooden carvings rivaled anything we had seen in any mission previously

San Xavier Del Bac Mission was founded as a Catholic Mission by Father Eusebio Kino in 1692. Construction of the church began in 1783 and it was completed in 1797. The oldest intact European structure in Arizona, the church's interior is filled with marvelous original statuary and mural paintings.


Constructed of low-fire clay brick, stone, and lime mortar, the entire structure is roofed with masonry vaults, making it unique among Spanish Colonial buildings within the U.S. borders.  The architect, Ignacio Gaona, is credited with building another church in Sonora, Mexico.


Little is known about the people who decorated the interior.  The artwork was most likely created by artists from Queretaro in New Spain (now Mexico). The sculpture was created in guild workshops and carried by donkey through the Pimeria Alta to its destination at the mission.  Craftsmen created gessoed clothing once the sculpture was in place.


Inside the church, in the glass case in the west transept, is what appears to be a mummy of some kind.  It is not a mummy as some locals believe but a statue of the crucified Christ, originally located at Tumacacori Mission.  When that mission was abandoned in 1849 due to Apache raiding, the people moved to San Xavier, bringing their saints with them.  Along the way, the statue of Christ lost its legs.  By the 1890's it was displayed in the west transept as the entombed Christ. Later, around the time of World War I, the statue was redefined as a reclining St. Francis Xavier and placed in a glass case where it remains today, an object of considerable devotion.


After our lovely afternoon exploring the mission, we returned to Wes and Gayle's beautiful home to relax a bit before Gayle presented us with another delightful supper.  This time we were treated to Korean Bulgogi Beef served with rice and a delicious Asian slaw and sliced cucumbers and radishes.  I must say, Gayle really knows how to put a meal together.


Dessert was an incredibly yummy bread pudding with a bourbon sauce that was literally the topping on the cake.  Yum!!

Gayles wine poached pear!

We had a perfectly lovely and relaxing time visiting our friends in Tucson and look forward to their visit to Grants Pass in August when Gayle requested a visit to the great wineries in our local Applegate Valley.

The trip back home to the base was much easier this time since we had some practice from last night and this afternoon getting back and forth to their place.  We settled into a quiet time at home, sleeping to the sounds of a beautiful rain on the roof of the MoHo, which thankfully waited until we were back home to begin.

We spent our last day at the base quietly at home, except for a quick trip to the commissary for provisions, the Express for fuel, and preparing for our departure back west on Saturday morning.