04-19-2025 Final Day on the Columbia, the Locks, and Multnomah Falls

 

Early morning on the Columbia River east of the Cascade Locks

Something we didn't really realize until we reviewed our itinerary in detail was that our river "cruise" was more about river ports than actually cruising on the river.  Much of the travel was completed during the night hours with arrivals after midnight and departures after dark.  This is reasonable for most people who are interested in exploring the ports along the Columbia River, but for us, it was a bit of a disappointment.  We were most excited to be on the river, to feel the motion of cruising, and watch the landscape as we passed. 

Our last day on the river gave us the best of everything, thanks to a few minor kerfuffles that required a bit of jockeying around for the ship captain.  First, he notified us that our departure time from the Port of Kalama would be earlier than scheduled because of the heavy river traffic ahead.  The captain hoped to get to the Cascade Locks at the Bonneville Dam before 4 AM to be ahead of some other ships and avoid long waits at the locks.

Mo and I set our alarm for 3:30 AM to be sure that we wouldn't miss the lock transit, but when we woke we discovered that our ship was quiet in the water and the locks were still more than 6 miles east of our location.  We put on warm coats and watched outside our stateroom for any sign of activity.  

We walked down the hall to the breakfast room for some coffee and finally went back to our room to wait for word from the captain.  After a time, anxious to see how far away we were from entering the locks, we went outside on the lower deck and settled into the rockers to watch the early morning light and wait for something exciting to happen.

The tiny lights of Bonneville Dam and Cascade Locks appeared in the distance just as it was turning daylight.

Passing Beacon Rock on the north shore of the Columbia

The ship was moving very slowly toward the dam, and then once again it came to a standstill

At last, the locks came into view, and we thought we would be passing through the lock

But no, American Jazz passed us into the lock as we waited another hour before entering

The captain told us later that the issue had to do with the Jazz's itinerary. She had priority since she was heading farther east all the way to Lewiston, Idaho. We learned much about the jockeying of ships on a busy waterway and what gets priority passage at different times.

Once our ship was in the lock, the gates closed, and the water began to rise, lifting the ship to the next level of the river.

Looking west from the lock toward the lower level of the River below the Bonneville Dam

Mo and I have both experienced going through locks on waterways, including the Panama Canal in an ocean liner, and the many locks on the Rhine in Europe.   Each experience is different, and I doubt I would get tired of the engineering magic that allows ships to shift levels on a river or between oceans.

The delight of this extended delay was the opportunity to cruise the Columbia River during daylight hours instead of in the dark as originally scheduled.  In addition to the delay at the locks, we needed to take on fuel, and the port at Stevenson, Washington, was closed for an undisclosed reason.  This necessitated that we travel additional miles to fuel at Hood River.

The Bridge of the Gods that crosses the Columbia from Hood River, Oregon to the Washington side

The extra time cruising the river on this beautiful morning was a highlight of our cruise.  We passed the old Columbia River Highway built by the CCC in the 30's.  (In the photo below shown above the new interstate highway)

 

We saw tribal fish traps where local people catch salmon as they have done for centuries.

We saw spectacular views of Mount Hood to the south of our route along the river

We saw a few hardy souls braving the morning chill and the seasonally cold river water to windsurf and windsail near Hood River, an activity that had made the town famous throughout the world.

The previous evening, before our visit on the bridge with the captain, we met his charming wife and listened to a few of her stories about her life with a river captain.  One of the interesting facts she told us in addition to his well-known prowess as a river captain, was his ability to dock the river ship right on the shoreline.

Sure enough, when we reached Hood River, we watched the ship turn perpendicular to the rocky beach wall and saw the captain drop the gangway right down on the side of the dirt road where the fueling trucks waited.  Our captain maneuvered that ship like a kid's toy.

Because the stop in Hood River was unscheduled, there were no official tours in town.  But the best tour of the afternoon was the included tour of Multnomah Falls, just half an hour by bus back toward the west from Hood River.

Mo and I have visited Multnomah Falls many times over the decades, but never together.  I hiked to the top of the falls in August of 1999 on a road trip from Spokane to Corvallis with daughter Deborah and grandson Matthew.  It was a hot day, and even when I was 25 years younger, that steep hike was a workout!

Sue at the top of Multnomah Falls in August 1999

Matthew and Deborah, after we hiked to the top of the falls in 1999

Since Mo and I have traveled I-84 past the falls, we have only watched for them in passing, never attempting to brave the crowds and the busy parking lot to visit.  We thought that visiting on a cruise tour was the perfect option to do so.  Let someone else drive and worry about parking, and we could simply enjoy the beautiful falls.

Multnomah Falls is the tallest waterfall in the state of Oregon and is the second-tallest year-round waterfall in the United States. However, there has been some skepticism surrounding this distinction, as Multnomah Falls is listed as the 156th tallest waterfall in the United States by the World Waterfall Database (this site does not distinguish between seasonal and year-round waterfalls. The World Waterfall Database disputes claims that Multnomah Falls is the fourth-tallest waterfall in the United States, which has been claimed in such sources as the Encyclopedia of World Geography. So which is it?  Second Tallest, Fourth Tallest, 156th Tallest?  Does it even matter? No matter where it lands in statistics, there is no question that it is one of the most lovely falls in the country.

The land surrounding the falls was developed by Simon Benson in the early twentieth century, with a pathway, viewing bridge, and adjacent lodge being constructed in 1925. The Multnomah Falls Lodge and the surrounding footpaths at the falls were added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1981. 

Looking down from the bridge viewpoint

I got a shot of Mo on the bridge but never managed a decent photo of me

Currently, the state of Oregon maintains a switchback trail that ascends to a talus slope 100 feet above the falls and descends to an observation deck that overlooks the falls' edge. The falls attract over two million visitors each year, making it the most-visited natural recreation site in the Pacific Northwest.

As a result, there are now timed entry and parking limitations at the main parking lot.  Another reason why we have never stopped in the past few years and why we were especially delighted for the opportunity to take a bus tour to visit one of our home state's most well-known features.

Our tour allowed plenty of time for those wanting to hike to the top of the falls to do so.  Needless to say, neither of us had any desire to attempt the hike this time, but I did manage to get my walker up to the observation bridge for some great photos.

The trip to the falls was a beautiful way to celebrate the last day of our river cruise on American Pride. Our meal that last night was excellent, with Maine lobster, Seared Farm Raised Beef Tenderloin served with Brandy Peppercorn Sauce, and drawn butter.  Dessert was a choice of many including Oregon Hazlenut Frangelico creme brulee and Merlot Chocolate Mousse.

After dinner, we once again went to the second-deck lounge for complimentary cocktails and another wild hour of incredible music by Mario Carboni. 

Sue and Mo on American Pride with the Bridge of the Gods in the background

Mo and I were very happy with the Columbia River cruise on American Pride.  We enjoyed every moment, enjoyed seeing familiar places in our beautiful state of Oregon from the river perspective.  We enjoyed the relaxation, the food, the stateroom, and the ship.  I am not sure what some folks who left bad reviews experienced, but it was defitely not our experience and I left a glowing review for American Cruise Lines and the American Pride.

04-18-2025 A Day at the Port of Kalama

We arrived at the Port of Kalama at 12:30 AM on Friday morning while sound asleep.  

Above: When we woke and opened our stateroom draperies, this is what we saw.  

It was another brilliant and sunny day in Northwestern Oregon in the middle of April. The gangway is a special one owned by American Pride, and it can be adjusted to the shoreline based on the current river level.

For whatever reason, neither Mo nor I had heard of the town of Kalama until we read our Columbia River Itinerary.  The main included excursion for this port was a five-hour bus trip to visit Mount Saint Helens, the iconic volcano visible from several vantage points along the river.  As I write this story today, we are just one day short of the 45th anniversary of the calamitous eruption of that volcano on May 18, 1980.

Above: the black cloud of volcanic ash overtaking Moscow Idaho on May 18 1980

I have an interesting reason for marking this anniversary.  I was married at 2 PM on May 18, 1980, just after the volcano blew and the ash turned the skies of our town, Moscow, Idaho, completely black.  It was an interesting day and an even more interesting honeymoon.  My new husband and I were trapped in our small home with my three teenage daughters, my own adopted mother, Lance's mother and step-father, my friend Maryruth, and assorted friends who had traveled from Coeur d'Alene to celebrate with us.  

Above: in front of our house on May 18 1980

Above: Phil and Joanne in the center, Daughter Melody to the right of them, and my dearest friend Maryruth at my wedding on May 18, 1980

Those friends included folks I have mentioned recently in this blog, Phil and Joanne Hartwig.  Phil and Joanne eventually made it back home through all the ash, but we spent three days unable to leave our home unless fully masked, and very few cars were on the road because the ash was causing all sorts of problems.  The airports were closed.  

Above: Notice the black windows outside at 2 PM in the afternoon on May 18 1980

So I do remember this day. I knew St Helens before she blew, and have visited her in the aftermath.  Mo and I have visited a couple of times as well.  Thus, neither of us had any particular need to sit on a bus for the ride up the mountain. We learned later that the Visitor Center was still closed for the season, so there was even less reason to visit.

Above: a view of the Mountain Timber Market

Instead, we decided to take another slow day on our own, exploring the Port of Kalama. Before disembarking, we attended a short presentation in the River Lounge touting all the wonders of the area. The town is small, with just over 8,000 residents, but the bustling port of Kalama ranks as the third largest exporter on the U.S. West Coast.  More than 40 onsite tenants at the Port employ more than 1,400 people, creating economic opportunities and beautiful recreational facilities that draw visitors from around the Northwest.  

Our narrator explained the complexity of building the Mountain Timber Market building, intended to house the 140-foot-tall Lelooska Totem Pole.  The building cost more than 22 million dollars, and Mo and I both wondered how such a building was financed.  The person representing the town said, "We paid cash".  Wow.  She informed us that the town has a very large disposable income because of the busy port, and they are continuously building and updating public areas to draw in tourists.

The town also built the Port of Kalama Interpretive Center, with exhibits that tell the story of how transportation formed the way the Port and the City of Kalama came to be.  The Center includes immersive display models, replicas, and educational videos. 

After our introductory lecture, Mo and I were looking forward to visiting the beautiful waterfront park, exploring the Public Market at the Mountain Timber Market Building, and enjoying a day that might include a bit of shopping.

Above: the Port of Kalama from the Sky Lounge Deck on American Pride, 

We exited the ship and walked to the Timber Market Building first.  It was big and it was impressive, but the shopping experience was a bit thin.  There were a few small shops, the sort that would need a much bigger population base in order to be successful.  We visited with a few of the shopkeepers and learned that the city had offered grants to the owners in order to make their businesses viable for a few years while the area is being developed.

The Lelooska Totem Pole was definitely impressive, and we laughed after learning that in order to fit it into the building, they had to extend the building a few feet.  The 140-foot Lelooska totem pole, initially located at the Port of Kalama, was taken down in 2018 due to structural concerns caused by weathering and potential safety risks. After being removed, the pole underwent a restoration process led by Chief Lelooska's family, including re-carving and surface work. The restored totem pole was then moved into the Port of Kalama's Mountain Timber Market in 2023, where it now hangs horizontally from the ceiling. The rededication ceremony took place on February 16, 2024. 

 

At one time, there were three totem poles at the port, and two of the shorter ones still remain upright. All of them were carved in the early 1960s by artist Don Smith and were designed to encompass Native American lore and tradition. Smith began work on them for display at the Seattle World’s Fair in 1962, but did not finish in time. Don Smith was not a Northwest Coast Indian but was adopted by the Kwakiutl tribe as an honorary chief in the 1970s. He took the name “Chief Lelooska,”

Above: one of the two remaining LaLooska totem poles still standing in the port

In 1977, Chief Lelooska and his family established the Lelooska Foundation, and each spring they welcome visitors to their Cultural Center in Ariel, Washington.  There, they host living history performances in the fire-lit replica of a Kwa’kwaka’wakw ceremonial house.  Visitors are treated to dramatic narration and dance presentations of traditional Northwest Coast Ceremonial Dances.    Though Don Smith died in 1996, the Foundation still carries on its educational mission, and the Cultural Center, operated by Chief Lelooska’s family, continues to present living history performances each spring.

Above: A traditional "real" totem pole I photographed in Ketchikan, Alaska, in 2010

Traditional totem poles are protected due to their significant cultural, historical, and spiritual importance to Native American communities, as well as their value as artistic expressions and traditional crafts. They serve as visual representations of tribal histories, legends, and social structures, often depicting ancestral figures, animals, and mythological beings. Because these totem poles in the park were works of art rather than traditional, they are not protected in the same way

In Native American culture, totem poles serve as visual records of stories, legends, and teachings passed down through generations. They depict family crests, hereditary titles, and social hierarchies within a tribe. The symbols and names on totem poles are often tied to tribal languages, helping to preserve these languages and oral traditions. Totem poles are powerful visual reminders of a tribe's roots, history, and cultural values. Totem poles can be used in ceremonies and rituals to connect with ancestors and spirits. The figures and symbols on totem poles often represent spiritual entities or animals with sacred meanings. 

As is true of other forms of Native American art and objects, some totem poles have been taken from their original communities by colonial forces and are now in museums or private collections. Efforts are underway to repatriate these poles to their rightful owners.  

It was surprising to us that in her presentation, the representative of the community of Kelowna never mentioned the fact that the LeLooska poles were simply works of art rather than traditional sacred totem poles. 

However, simply as a work of art by Don Smith, the LeLooska Totem Pole is magnificent, with 140 feet of carving and painting representing traditional stories and mythology. 

After exploring the Mountain Timber Market building, we stepped outside to the heady fragrance of a taco food truck.  Lunch was free on the ship just a few hundred yards away, but I couldn't resist the charcoal-broiled beef and homemade salsas with fresh corn tortillas.  Heaven!

We then continued our exploration of the port by walking to the opposite end of the park to visit the Port of Kalama Interpretive Center.  The highlight of the center is the huge steam locomotive called the SP&S 539. Once again, we laughed at the story we were told about how the engine didn't fit the building and they had to retrofit the Center to get it inside. This locomotive was built in 1917 and previously operated by the Spokane, Portland & Seattle Railway. It was part of the Grand Canyon Railway before being purchased by the Port of Kalama in 2019. The locomotive was moved to Kalama in March 2020.

The center was open and well built, with large rooms for community meetings and other spaces for educational lectures.  The displays were interesting, but after our spectacular visit to the Maritime Museum in Astoria, we were a bit disappointed.  All the talk about what was available at the port was a bit exaggerated.  The park was lovely, the buildings were spacious and well built, but the sense is that they need a bit of time to grow into themselves.

The most interesting building at the port, however, is the beautiful McMenniman's Kalama Harbor Lodge.  Situated between Kalama's landmark totem poles and the Port of Kalama's Interpretive Center lies the lodge.  Opened in 2018, the Harbor Lodge was inspired by the Hawaiian heritage of John Kalama, founder of the town, while the property's architecture was inspired by the Pioneer Inn in Lahaina, Maui. 

Above: Pioneer Inn in Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii

We learned that after the fires that destroyed the Pioneer Inn, there were no blueprints left to use to restore it.  The people of Lahaina requested blueprints from McMenniman's and are using them to bring the restoration of the Pioneer Inn as close as possible to the original.

Above:  Back to our lovely American Pride

We enjoyed our simple day at the Port of Kalama, with plenty of time for walking in the sunshine, watching people on the small beach and in the park, and relaxing in the late afternoon before dinner as the ship departed.

Above: Our captain on the left posing for a photo op with a passenger

Dinner was scheduled at 5:30, but also at 5:30, just before departure, the Captain offered an invitation to anyone interested to tour the bridge.  There were about 30 of us who crowded into the room to hear his stories.  Our captain has worked on the Columbia River for more than ten years and is considered one of the best navigators of the great river.  Before beginning his tour on the Pride, he was captain of the Song of America, a bigger and newer ship.  He said he didn't have a favorite, with each ship having its own personality and quirks. 

Above:  American Jazz (same vintage as the Song) moored across from us at the Port of Kalama

Above: Departing the Port of Kalama

After our bridge visit, we went down to dinner, a bit late but still in time to get great food and excellent service at a table with friends we met at previous meals.  

The dinner menu entrees:  

Seared Columbia River Steelhead Trout, served with Smoked Salmon Ragout, Blistered Baby Heirloom Tomatoes, Cheese Tortellini, and English Pea Puree

Veal Schnitzel with Bacon and Thyme Gnocchi served with Braised Washington Apples, Red Cabbage, and a Lemon Caper Butter Sauce.

Red Wine Braised Short Ribs of Beef served with Eagle Eye Farms Whipped Kennebec Potatoes, Roasted Broccolini, and Braising Jus (Mo and I each chose this entree)

Sun-Dried Tomato Risotto with Asparagus topped with Crispy Leeks and Shaved Parmesan.

As you can see, there is a vegetarian option, as was the case for all meals.  I would think this menu rivals any we have enjoyed on much bigger ships, and the food was delicious.

After dinner, Mo and I decided to go to the River Lounge on the Second Deck for cocktails and entertainment.  The cocktails are complimentary, with a specialty herbal mojito, which was superb.  But it was the entertainment that was so good that Mo turned to me and said, "This is worth the cost of the entire trip!"  

Mario Carboni the "Honky Tonk Rebel"

Above: piano with one hand and trumpet with the other, and both to perfection while he added some lyrics 

That might have been a bit of an exaggeration, but not much.  We listened to some incredible music by Mario Carboni, with piano that rivaled Jerry Lee Lewis, and a voice as smooth as butter singing songs we knew and loved.  In addition, the guy was funny, REALLY funny, and we laughed out loud many times. He was so good that we even bought his CD, which he joked about, saying "No one has CD players anymore", even though we no longer have a CD player except in our car.  

The evening put a great spin on what had been a fairly quiet day, and we knew that we would be sure to get good seats for his performance the next evening, our last of the cruise.