06-06-2025 There is Something About That 3:30 am Hour, and our May Camping Trip

Daughter Deborah captured these images of Mo and me in a familiar moment, with Mo trying to figure out why I am being so silly. Could it be the wine?

 I am not really sure how many long-time readers are still hanging around my blog, but if any of you are still here, you may remember that my best time for writing is often in the wee hours of the morning. Spring and Early Summer are in full swing now in Grants Pass, which means that gardening season is here. Cleanup in April, planting in May, trimming in June. The flow of the seasonal progression around here is a precious thing.

In that lovely progression, I had a fall, landing on my hip.  Thought maybe I cracked something, but no, just old lady arthritis, and a 7-day round of Prednisone was the solution to night pain that kept me awake.  Now I am awake, not from pain but from the spectacular miracle drug that is also full of side effects, like keeping me awake.  I try not to take it more than 3 times a year when nothing else seems to do the trick and lessen the uncomfortable feelings of IBM and aging.

At 3:30 this morning, I woke and treasured the intense quiet of the night.  No barking dogs, no cars going by, no sounds from town just below our terrace.  The moon is gone and the stars are brighter this time of night.  We have a couple of solar lanterns on the decks, and yesterday I added some solar lights along the back gardens.  The glow in the sky is the glow of our town, which is captured perfectly by the night mode on a Samsung camera.  Silly photo, but it reminds me of the silence that kept me awake and sent me here to the office to write about our last camping trip.

Daughter Deborah camped with us again, only this time she brought her own tent for sleeping instead of staying in the RV.

Despite the springtime chores, we still manage to get in at least one trip each month, and Mid-May was no exception. Our destination was close, just a little over an hour east toward the mountains and the lovely Lost Lake Reservoir.  The Joseph Stewart State Park is still called that even though it is now owned and operated by Jackson County Parks.  

Lost Creek Lake is a reservoir on the Rogue River in Jackson County, Oregon. The lake is impounded by William L. Jess Dam, which was constructed by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers in 1977 for flood control and fisheries enhancement.

Monday midday at Joseph Stewart, with all the Mother's Day weekend campers gone.

It is a lovely park, with widely space campsites, well maintained grounds, electric and water hookups in about half the campsites, and a dump station that worked better than most we have encountered.

Our campsite, with room for the MoHo, the Tracker, Deb's adorable Subaru, with her tent, and a partial view of the lake toward the back.

Above, The view of our launch site at Catfish Cove, across the lake from our campground. Below, aerial view of the perfect place to launch kayaks on Lost Creek Lake.

We camped at Lost Lake in 2023, and like that year, the reservoir this year was 99 percent full, a lovely condition which encourages kayaking.  We usually avoid reservoirs because, in years of drought, there are only brown dirt embankments surrounding the water, and it isn't very pretty from a boat.  Summer may still bring drought if predictions are correct, but in spring during snow melt this year, all the reservoirs in the Rogue Valley system were full.  I wish we had time to go camping and kayaking at every single full lake within an hour or two of home.

On this kayak trip, however, we initially planned to take turns in the boats, with three campers and only two kayaks, it was the only solution. However, a couple of minor surgeries involving my lower leg and my toe meant I couldn't get in a bathtub or a hot tub, much less a wild lake. As a result, we had two kayakers, Mo and Deborah, two kayaks, and me.  I helped with the launches, waited in the car with the dog and went on a few short hikes. 

And they are off, on a bright clear morning with very little wind

I drove back to the bridge crossing the lake for a view of the two of them from above.

Watching until they disappeared upstream

Such a beautiful place on a sunny morning, and it was fun to see it all from a different perspective and try to follow them on the trail that parallels the lake on the left side.

Mariposa lilies and lupine lined the trail in the sunnier spots

In addition to kayaking, we had campfires every night.  The winds weren't as strong as they had been in the past, and the smoke was manageable and even laughable at times as we moved our chairs around the fire to be in just the right spot to avoid it.

Suppers were pre-planned, easy and fun, with the favorite being a bbqed pork loin with my own special marinade, creamy vanilla and maple flavored sweet potatoes, and my signature plum-cherry sauce for the pork.  Steamed and seasoned green beans rounded out the colors.

 

The second morning of kayaking wasn't quite as perfect, with overcast skies and a bit of wind shortening the time on the water for Deb and Mo to less than an hour.  They still loved it in spite of the challenges, and I enjoyed more time walking the short trails around Catfish Cove.

Later that day, the clouds lifted and we went for a long walk around the park.  This time, I needed to use the trusty walker on the rough trail, and it added a bit of challenge.  Onward, and keep laughing!

It was Mother's Day, and Deborah wanted to treat us to a lovely dinner at Mac's Diner in Shady Cove, just half an hour from the campground.  Deb lived in Shady Cove for some years and had often mentioned wanting to take us there.  We had a good time with a great view of the river, enjoying the unique ambience of the diner.

That night it rained all night, and Deborah used a tarp to keep her tent dry.  We decided that a rainy day might be the best time to do some local sightseeing, and instead, the rain stopped and our sightseeing day was spectacular.

Deb took us to a waterfall that, in all our years of driving up Highway 62 toward Crater Lake, we had never seen.  Just a couple of miles east of the highway is Mill Creek Falls, a spectacular cascade that flows underneath a beautiful historic bridge.

Returning to Highway 62 through the little community of Prospect, we continued to a familiar place where Mo and I often take guests on our sightseeing trips around Grants Pass.  The Natural Bridge area has a lovely trail to the wooden bridge that crosses the wild Rogue River.  There are interpretive signs that explain the volcanic geology of the area and the way the river goes underground through the volcanic rock that makes up the Rogue River Gorge.

The Rogue River is magnificent from its birth, not far from this spot in springs on the east side of Crater Lake, all the way to its meeting with the Pacific Ocean at Gold Beach. For any river nerds reading this blog who might like to get into the weeds about the Rogue River, here is a link to a great article in Wikipedia that describes its beginning, its end, and all the tributaries that flow into it.  (The Rogue River). The great river flows through our town and is a highlight of a drive to the grocery store.  A few miles west of us, the river is designated as "Wild and Scenic" and is a wild run of rapids and beauty for the most adventurous rafters.

A cool, rainy day was the perfect backdrop for a stop at the historic and iconic Beckies Cafe at Union Creek.  Famous for their Marionberry pies in season, this time we had to settle for a simple blackberry pie, also perfect.  Surprisingly, the French fries were the best we had eaten anywhere.  Pie and fries, what could be better?1

Beckie's is famous all over the world, often mentioned in travel stories about driving to Crater Lake with a stop at Union Creek for their famous pies.  

The cafe has a rich history spanning over a century. It was built in the early 1920s by Ed Beckelhymer and quickly became a popular stop for travelers and locals alike. The cafe is part of the broader Union Creek Resort, which is still a thriving business with lodging and guest cabins. 

Ed Beckelhymer, known to locals as "Beckie," originally ran the restaurant and a service station. The Union Creek Resort, including Beckie's Cafe, was a significant part of the early tourism in the area, serving as a popular camping spot and a place to rest for tourists and berry pickers. After Ed's passing, his wife, Cecil, continued to run the business, also known as "Beckie," and became famous for her huckleberry pies. Beckie's Cafe is listed on the National Historic Register.  The cafe remains a popular destination for those seeking a taste of the past and a peaceful setting near the Rogue River and Union Creek. 

After our snack, we continued east and north on Highway 62 just a short distance from Beckie's, to visit Deb's favorite spot on the River, the Gorge.  Here, the trails wind along more wild cascades where the river has eroded the volcanic rock into a deep gorge.

Rogue River Gorge Viewpoint has a short, paved path loaded with incredible, close-up views of the river’s rushing waters through the narrow channel. There are incredible views of a portion of the 215-mile Rogue at its narrowest: just 25 feet wide and screaming with the hydraulic force at a rate of about  410,000 gallons per minute. Along the path, there are more interpretive signs explaining some of the science of what’s going on here, including one for The Living Stump, which is exactly what it sounds like, a stump that, because of its interconnectivity with roots of neighboring trees, has continued to live. 

Yes, we ended the day once again in the rain. The two-shoe option had to do with the foot surgery that made it impossible to wear a proper shoe on both feet, but I needed at least one to keep proper balance.

Our camping trip was the perfect balance of sunshine, rain on the roof, kayaking, sightseeing, and excellent food. It was a truly spectacular way to spend Mother's Day with one of my daughters, and Mo and I agreed the short trip, just an hour from home, was nearly perfect.  We are so very lucky to live where we do.

Deb got a phone shot of the full moon rising on our last night at the park.  

May is just behind us now, and writing about our trip and the cool rain and lovely days reminds me why I always say that May is the very best time to visit this part of Oregon.  Our green grasses are now browning in the lower pasture where we don't irrigate.  The days have been nearly perfect, with only a few reaching the high 80s in the last weeks of the month. 

Astrological summer begins this year on June 20th at the Summer Solstice.  However, meteorological summer, as defined by climatologists, runs from June 1st to August 31st. This is a fixed, three-month period that is used for more convenient data analysis and comparison of seasonal trends across years. Here, it already feels like summer, and we are expecting triple digits in Grants Pass this coming weekend.  Now it begins.  The sweet spot is over, and now we wait for the heat and the dryness, the possible fires and all the other delights of living in a place that is very nearly perfect, but not quite.

04-19-2025 Final Day on the Columbia, the Locks, and Multnomah Falls

 

Early morning on the Columbia River east of the Cascade Locks

Something we didn't really realize until we reviewed our itinerary in detail was that our river "cruise" was more about river ports than actually cruising on the river.  Much of the travel was completed during the night hours with arrivals after midnight and departures after dark.  This is reasonable for most people who are interested in exploring the ports along the Columbia River, but for us, it was a bit of a disappointment.  We were most excited to be on the river, to feel the motion of cruising, and watch the landscape as we passed. 

Our last day on the river gave us the best of everything, thanks to a few minor kerfuffles that required a bit of jockeying around for the ship captain.  First, he notified us that our departure time from the Port of Kalama would be earlier than scheduled because of the heavy river traffic ahead.  The captain hoped to get to the Cascade Locks at the Bonneville Dam before 4 AM to be ahead of some other ships and avoid long waits at the locks.

Mo and I set our alarm for 3:30 AM to be sure that we wouldn't miss the lock transit, but when we woke we discovered that our ship was quiet in the water and the locks were still more than 6 miles east of our location.  We put on warm coats and watched outside our stateroom for any sign of activity.  

We walked down the hall to the breakfast room for some coffee and finally went back to our room to wait for word from the captain.  After a time, anxious to see how far away we were from entering the locks, we went outside on the lower deck and settled into the rockers to watch the early morning light and wait for something exciting to happen.

The tiny lights of Bonneville Dam and Cascade Locks appeared in the distance just as it was turning daylight.

Passing Beacon Rock on the north shore of the Columbia

The ship was moving very slowly toward the dam, and then once again it came to a standstill

At last, the locks came into view, and we thought we would be passing through the lock

But no, American Jazz passed us into the lock as we waited another hour before entering

The captain told us later that the issue had to do with the Jazz's itinerary. She had priority since she was heading farther east all the way to Lewiston, Idaho. We learned much about the jockeying of ships on a busy waterway and what gets priority passage at different times.

Once our ship was in the lock, the gates closed, and the water began to rise, lifting the ship to the next level of the river.

Looking west from the lock toward the lower level of the River below the Bonneville Dam

Mo and I have both experienced going through locks on waterways, including the Panama Canal in an ocean liner, and the many locks on the Rhine in Europe.   Each experience is different, and I doubt I would get tired of the engineering magic that allows ships to shift levels on a river or between oceans.

The delight of this extended delay was the opportunity to cruise the Columbia River during daylight hours instead of in the dark as originally scheduled.  In addition to the delay at the locks, we needed to take on fuel, and the port at Stevenson, Washington, was closed for an undisclosed reason.  This necessitated that we travel additional miles to fuel at Hood River.

The Bridge of the Gods that crosses the Columbia from Hood River, Oregon to the Washington side

The extra time cruising the river on this beautiful morning was a highlight of our cruise.  We passed the old Columbia River Highway built by the CCC in the 30's.  (In the photo below shown above the new interstate highway)

 

We saw tribal fish traps where local people catch salmon as they have done for centuries.

We saw spectacular views of Mount Hood to the south of our route along the river

We saw a few hardy souls braving the morning chill and the seasonally cold river water to windsurf and windsail near Hood River, an activity that had made the town famous throughout the world.

The previous evening, before our visit on the bridge with the captain, we met his charming wife and listened to a few of her stories about her life with a river captain.  One of the interesting facts she told us in addition to his well-known prowess as a river captain, was his ability to dock the river ship right on the shoreline.

Sure enough, when we reached Hood River, we watched the ship turn perpendicular to the rocky beach wall and saw the captain drop the gangway right down on the side of the dirt road where the fueling trucks waited.  Our captain maneuvered that ship like a kid's toy.

Because the stop in Hood River was unscheduled, there were no official tours in town.  But the best tour of the afternoon was the included tour of Multnomah Falls, just half an hour by bus back toward the west from Hood River.

Mo and I have visited Multnomah Falls many times over the decades, but never together.  I hiked to the top of the falls in August of 1999 on a road trip from Spokane to Corvallis with daughter Deborah and grandson Matthew.  It was a hot day, and even when I was 25 years younger, that steep hike was a workout!

Sue at the top of Multnomah Falls in August 1999

Matthew and Deborah, after we hiked to the top of the falls in 1999

Since Mo and I have traveled I-84 past the falls, we have only watched for them in passing, never attempting to brave the crowds and the busy parking lot to visit.  We thought that visiting on a cruise tour was the perfect option to do so.  Let someone else drive and worry about parking, and we could simply enjoy the beautiful falls.

Multnomah Falls is the tallest waterfall in the state of Oregon and is the second-tallest year-round waterfall in the United States. However, there has been some skepticism surrounding this distinction, as Multnomah Falls is listed as the 156th tallest waterfall in the United States by the World Waterfall Database (this site does not distinguish between seasonal and year-round waterfalls. The World Waterfall Database disputes claims that Multnomah Falls is the fourth-tallest waterfall in the United States, which has been claimed in such sources as the Encyclopedia of World Geography. So which is it?  Second Tallest, Fourth Tallest, 156th Tallest?  Does it even matter? No matter where it lands in statistics, there is no question that it is one of the most lovely falls in the country.

The land surrounding the falls was developed by Simon Benson in the early twentieth century, with a pathway, viewing bridge, and adjacent lodge being constructed in 1925. The Multnomah Falls Lodge and the surrounding footpaths at the falls were added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1981. 

Looking down from the bridge viewpoint

I got a shot of Mo on the bridge but never managed a decent photo of me

Currently, the state of Oregon maintains a switchback trail that ascends to a talus slope 100 feet above the falls and descends to an observation deck that overlooks the falls' edge. The falls attract over two million visitors each year, making it the most-visited natural recreation site in the Pacific Northwest.

As a result, there are now timed entry and parking limitations at the main parking lot.  Another reason why we have never stopped in the past few years and why we were especially delighted for the opportunity to take a bus tour to visit one of our home state's most well-known features.

Our tour allowed plenty of time for those wanting to hike to the top of the falls to do so.  Needless to say, neither of us had any desire to attempt the hike this time, but I did manage to get my walker up to the observation bridge for some great photos.

The trip to the falls was a beautiful way to celebrate the last day of our river cruise on American Pride. Our meal that last night was excellent, with Maine lobster, Seared Farm Raised Beef Tenderloin served with Brandy Peppercorn Sauce, and drawn butter.  Dessert was a choice of many including Oregon Hazlenut Frangelico creme brulee and Merlot Chocolate Mousse.

After dinner, we once again went to the second-deck lounge for complimentary cocktails and another wild hour of incredible music by Mario Carboni. 

Sue and Mo on American Pride with the Bridge of the Gods in the background

Mo and I were very happy with the Columbia River cruise on American Pride.  We enjoyed every moment, enjoyed seeing familiar places in our beautiful state of Oregon from the river perspective.  We enjoyed the relaxation, the food, the stateroom, and the ship.  I am not sure what some folks who left bad reviews experienced, but it was defitely not our experience and I left a glowing review for American Cruise Lines and the American Pride.